The Princess Seam

Gone On Vacation!!!!!!!!!!!!!

2010-11-16T00:14:00.001-07:00

Corduroy Trench and Shorts

2010-11-12T22:52:00.003-07:00

I’ve been toying with the idea of making a trench for Emma for a while; so, when I found this polka dot corduroy fabric I knew I had to try it.

Speaking of fabrics, when I was planning the fall capsule for my daughter, I first narrowed down the pieces I wanted to make, and then focused on the fabrics. I definitely wanted some corduroy; it is such a cosy fall material! I was glad I could use a flower-print one I’ve had for a few years (see the shorts in this post), and I found the polka dot one online. It was an added bonus that both cord fabrics coordinated. Also, both are pinwales and lightweight.

As you can see, the shapes of the trench are very basic, yet, lady-like. I was glad to find the lace-up shoes to "toughen up" an otherwise very girly wardrobe.

Construction-wise, the trench has inseam pockets, cuffed sleeves, and is lined in lightweight cotton fabric, all practical details.

We found the cap in TJ Maxx and I knew it would perfectly compliment the trench, so, we had to have it.

I had to wait three weeks for the flower-shaped buttons, but it was worth it, they add just the right touch of whimsy.

I find that shorts are a great alternative to skirts, even for winter, worn with tights.

The pattern for this pair of shorts is from Burda WOF, and was reviewed here: http://theprincessseam.blogspot.com/2010/05/girly-summer.html as a summer garment. For fall, I made it in flower-print corduroy, in a size bigger.

As I have said before, I love the playfulness and girliness of this pattern. I highly recommend it to anyone sewing for a girl.

A couple of detail shots:

Dresses, Dresses, And More Dresses

2010-11-08T06:43:00.000-07:00

DD loves dresses. If she had it her way, she would wear dresses only, preferably princess ones...

As part of my fall capsule for her, I made 3 dresses.

1. Diamonds and Squares dress.

This dress was made using a Burda WOF pattern, but unfortunately, I don't remember which one. I used a poly knit and played with the pattern: the placket features squares and the rest of the dress diamonds. The dress is underlined with a lightweight cotton knit, and the neckline is bound with lightweight brown corduroy cut on the bias. There is a CB button closure.

The other 2 dresses I had made before (2 years ago) in a smaller size. They turned out to be such huge hits with DD that I remade them in her current size this summer. Since they have been previously reviewed in detail, I will provide only brief descriptions below.

2. Village Frock

The pattern was purchased from the ladies behind http://sugarcityjournal.blogspot.com/

For previos version and construction details, pls click here: http://theprincessseam.blogspot.com/2008/10/village-frock.html

3. Striped Dress with Leggings

Previous version and construction details, pls click here: http://theprincessseam.blogspot.com/2008/10/striped-dress.html
This dress is self-drafted, and made from a reversible (two-faced) interlock. I utilized both sides. The bodice is lined with something similar to swimsuit lining.

Polka Dot Tiered Skirt and Marc Jacobs - Inspired Tees

2010-11-02T23:43:00.005-06:00

Thanks to everyone for the well wishes and the congratulations on our baby boy!

I apologize for the non-existing maintenance of the blog, but babies do that. Luckily, he is a delightful baby and fills my heart with so much joy.

Back when I was pregnant, I made a fall capsule for DD, and will try to post the outfits as she is wearing them.

I wil start today with a skirt and two tees.

The skirt is a design inspired by J Crew's Crewcuts summer collection. The original skirt was made of silk and the tiers laid more flat. Our version is made from lightweight corduroy and poofs up, which I love:

The tees (the one worn with the skirt and the one below worn with the jeans) were inspired by the Marc by Marc Jacobs tee below. I liked the peeking twisted contrast at the hem and at the sleeves. My version is with quarter sleeves and is more fitted.

Here are two close-ups:Details on construction:

Skirt: It has a base layer ( a rectangle) onto which the gathered and hemmed tiers are attached. The waist is elasticised, with the elastic laying on the inside of the skirt. I also lined the skirt.

Tee: It actually consists of 2 tees, the inside layer being cut longer at teh hem and sleeves. The two layers are constructed separately, and then attached at the hem and sleeve hems. when attaching the side seams of the inside layer are moved clockwise for a twisted effect. Lastly, the neckband is attched to both layers simultaneously.

Our Baby Boy

2010-09-29T21:42:00.003-06:00

Our baby boy Alexander Valentin (Valentin is my Dad's name) was born in the end of July (way after his due date), and we have been busy loving him ever since!

I have some fall clothes that I made for DD before Alexander's birth and will try to post them as she starts wearing them. The temperatures have to drop WAY down first!

No Baby Yet...

2010-07-15T12:13:00.000-06:00

It is my due date, but there is no baby yet...

What Happened To Me... (not good)

2010-06-30T15:14:00.005-06:00

I had to run some errands today in Peyton, and noticed that a new nail salon called "Chic Nails" had opened. I have been going to a place that is very good but is a bit far, so since this new one was close, I decided to peek inside. To check the service, I decided to get the cheapest thing done, a paraffin dip for the hands. The guy who was doing it poured paraffin in 2 plastic bags (mind you, I have never seen it done that way, you usually dip in the paraffin and then they put plastic gloves on your hands) and asked me to put my hand in one of the bags. As I am sitting on a chair and putting my hand in the bag, he is maneuvering the paraffin around my fingers and hands from across a table. At that point he twitched or something, I don't know, but he poured the entire paraffin content of the bag over my thigh and the part of my dress that was covering it. I was so distraught, I got up and said I was leaving. Noone from the 3 people servicing the location said anything, with the exception of a meek, "I am sorry" by the guy. Mind you, at this point I am clearly super very visibly 9-months pregnant, was obviously balistically upset, and the only reason I did not lose it right there was because my 4 y.o. was right next to me.

I left, went home, searched online for how to get rid of the wax, tried to clean up the dress, but the stains would not go away no matter what I did. I called a dry cleaner and she said that with colored paraffin (which cosmetic paraffin wax is) it is likely the stains will stay in one form or another. So, I called the salon, and told the guy they should pay for the damaged dress (I actually had just bought it and had the receipt saved, the tags still in my unempried trash can). He told me he would not do that because it was an accident and that he did not have time to deal with me. Then, he hung up. BTW, he refused to put me in touch with the owner.

Next, my husband got really pissed off by the hanging up of the phone, and drove off to the place to make his point. I was not there (probably should have gone as well) but the guy insisted that not only it was an accident but it was entirely my fault because I had moved my hand. I had not, not to mention that the projectile of the paraffin flow would have been very different if I had, however, this is beside the point. The other two workers agreed with him, although they were doing pedicures about 5 yards away from me and had no way of knowing what happened, other than it happened.

Mind you, the dress was not expensive but 1) was really pretty, 2) fit me very well (which when you are 38 weeks pregnant and still relatively small in the rest of your body is very very hard to come by), and 3) would have been great for the last 2-3 weeks of the pregnancy, for breastfeeding, and for the first 2 postpartum months. The dry cleaner I left it with was very ambivalent about the result; she said she would try her best. I mean, realistically, what else can she say or do anyway.

Now, I complained to the Better Business Bureau, wrote a negative review for the business on yelp.com, but I feel so utterly unsatisfied and screwed over! I even cried after my husband came home and told me what their version of the events was. If I was not as pregnant as I am right now, I would have totally taken this issue with the small claims court (although it is not worth my time and effort, I would have done it on the principle). But right now I simply can't! I just have this overwhelming desire for revenge that I cannot quite get control of...

Over The Knee Boots Infatuation...Yeah, in June...

2010-06-29T19:03:00.004-06:00

I know it is HOT outside and only the end of June, but I could not contain my excitement when I came across these Alexander Wang "Sigrid" boots on shopbop.com (the photos are from there). They are over -the-knee, and the notched heel and the back zip closure are to die for.

The website does not mention where they were made, yet, another retailer that carries other footwear pieces from his prefall collection lists the items it carries as "made in China." I don't mind shoes being made in China, but should they cost $900 then? I don't know... Had they been made in Italy, Spain, heck, maybe even Brasil, then ok, but China?

If they ever go on sale, I may get them.

Look at the profile and the heel! Beautiful...

Burda Website Rant

2010-06-08T17:27:00.001-06:00

Ok, so by now most of you have already heard about the closing of Burda Fashion website for EG speakers and “merging” it with Burda Style.

I am going to start by saying that I am not one of those people opposed to change and new things, not in the least. However, I am miffed by this decision. I am also confused by what might have inspired it! After a long courting of American sewers, Burda just decides to take away its entire magazine website from them?

I used to use the magazine website a lot – for the archives, for previews, etc. Now I have to go to the Russian website (thank goodness my Russian is still decent) and navigate from there. But why? To me, Burda Style serves a completely different purpose than Buda Fashion and has a distinctly different concept altogether. I, personally, don’t care about it, but that is just me. There are plenty of people who like it and use it. What I am struggling with is why suddenly EG users are denied access to the most popular features of Burda Fashion. I read some of the explanations that the people behind Burda Style have provided, and found them plenty lame. They say that “some” features will be eventually added to the Burda Style, but fail to elaborate on which features and when. Now, if it was up to me, I would have first asked for opinions of users before doing something this major. Even then, though, I would have done a gradual move to Burda Style, and present users with a full of features website, as opposed to one that is yet to be populated.

Bottom-line for me, I've spent plenty of time on Burda Style to determine it is not my cup of tea, and I don’t see using it in future. As long as the access to the Russian Burda Fashion website remains an option, I’d continue going there for previews and archives.

What do you all think?

Girly Summer

2010-05-27T09:40:00.013-06:00

Here are the rest of the things I made for DD as part of my summer sewing plan:

Burda WOF 2008-04-140, s.104:

Sleeveless top with shoulder ties; made from cotton seersucker in white and yellow stripe.

From the magazine:

Burda WOF 2008-03-133:

Sleeveless top with ribbon at shoulders and neckline; made from an old cotton shirt of my husband (the sleeves and two fronts).

From the magazine:
Burda WOF 2008-03-2008, s.104:

Shorts/Bloomers; made from cotton seersucker in white and yellow stripe.

Design-wise, I found the shorts most amusing. The pockets are really interestingly done, the leg is gathered as in rompers, and the ties are so cute! All in all, it is a very fresh, girly, and current garment. I am planning on making it from pinwale corduroy (in a size larger) for fall.

From the magazine:

Burda WOF 2008-03-131, s.104:

Dress/ Pinafore Top with gathered straps; made from cotton voile with beautifully raised print. Depending on the length of the bodice, this pattern can be either a tunic or a dress. I like that it can be layered over a tee. The flower pin is not part of the pattern, I just thought it was a nice touch.

I love the fabric. You cannot really appreciate it unless you can see it and handle it. I really want to make something for myself from it, but cannot settle on the design. Maybe next summer…

From the magazine:

Little Girl's Sewing

2010-05-22T19:04:00.003-06:00

I am continuing with posting the outfits I've made for DD. She, btw, has recovered from her surgery and is all better. We don't know if the surgery resolved the underlying issue, and will not know until end of August.

So, let's begin...

Striped dolman sleeve tee - selfdrafted.

The striped tee is self-drafted and made from lightweight cotton jersey.
I made for myself the same design tee, from the same fabric.

The necklace, btw, is her "pink pearls necklace," and she styled it with this outfit herself.

Linen Tunic, Burda WOF 2008-08-134, s.104:

Well-drafted pattern, the back closure is a line of buttons down the CB.

I don't know if you can tell from the photos, but the stripe has a tiny metalic thread woven into it. From magazine:

Burda WOF 139-07-2009: Wrap dress; made from lightweight denim.

The dress, in itself, is a very plain design, which is why, I think, the magazine suggests embellishing with crystals at the bottom hem. I chose to do a chiffon flower (from Dillard’s) instead; it is more my daughter, I think. However, my only advice, make it in a fun print or you will have to embellish. The flower, btw, is detachable.

From magazine:

To be continued...

Burda WOF 2008-11-139

2010-05-18T13:14:00.005-06:00

I have been doing a lot of sewing for DD, and it is time for some posting to take place!

This dress is from Burda WOF 2008/11-139, and is designed by the head designer of Pampolina. Below is the nagazine picture and the technical drawing.

Technically, I should have cut s. 104, but this is s.110. I did it in 110 so she could wear it in the fall, however, I think that one can easily size up in this pattern.

The fabric is pinwale corduroy (Kaufman print). The fabric is a fairly busy print with larger objects, so I had to be careful with the placement of the pattern. Luckily, the print was not off-grain at all! The dress is fully lined with ponge lining.

There is an invisible zipper in CB. There is also a lot of topstitching but it is worth it.

My impressions from the instructions: not impressed, very typical Burda WOF.

The pattern, however, is drafted beautifully!

I love how the dress turned out, the fabric totally makes it!

Today's Pregnancy Outfit

2010-05-04T20:26:00.004-06:00

I am in my 29th week. It is getting heavy, I am feeling acidic, and huff and puff all the time.

Have been meaning to post pictures of the clothes I made for my daughter; however, we were thrown a curveball here. After much insistance from my husband and me, a sleep study was performed on our daughter. It confirmed our suspicions that she had sleep apnea, and not just any sleep apnea but a "markedly severe" one. So, she had to have her tonsils and adenoids removed. The surgery went well; turned out she had oversized adenoids and adult-sized tonsils. The recovery has been bumpy though, very rough on her. Therefore, the pictures will have to wait a bit.

Had to run errands today, including find myself a new bra. Here is what I wore (t-shirt dress, leather jacket, tights and clogs):

Vogue Pattern 8259 Wanted

2010-04-27T14:11:00.002-06:00

Does anyone have the Claire Shaeffer Vogue Pattern 8259 (6-8-10 ) that they would be willing to sell? Or does anyone know where there may be one for sale?
I checked ebay and the vogue site, but did not find anything. :((

Worst come to worst, is anyone willing to lend me the pattern, so I can trace it in my size?

Thanks!

Spring-Summer Collection for My Daughter

2010-04-25T11:31:00.000-06:00

I have been doing some summer sewing for my daughter. It has been a while since I have made her anything. Plus, she has loved and worn a ton the few things I have made her. The picture above contains most of the pieces I have made for her, but there a few that I made after the photo was taken.

The idea behind the undertaking was to develop a "collection" of sorts that offers the possibility to mix and match the individual pieces. When planning, Ihad to take in consideration the summer clothes she already has (mostly bottoms). I could have, hypothetically, made her the tank tops and tees she needed, but I went to the The Children’s Place and Old Navy instead. I’d rather use the time for something less generic.

Most of the designs are Burda WOF patterns; some are drafted by me. The styles and colors reflect what I like in children's clothing, i.e. clothes that resemble those of grown-ups, yet appropriate for the little ones. That is why there are not many (any!) frills and pink hues. I did not make more pants because my daughter prefers dresses and skirts to pants, so I had to respect that as well.

I am going to post individual pictures and brief reviews (if a commercial pattern was used) shortly.

Dolman Sleeve Tops

2010-04-21T21:55:00.000-06:00

I needed some more or less basic tops, yet, I wanted to steer clear of the basic tee. The solution - dolman sleeve top where the "dolman" element is very understated. I made the torso long, which may have to be redone after the pregnancy ends. The sleeves are slim and reach mid-forearm.

Again, I betrayed my mantra to not make multiples from the same pattern. The tan top is made from taupe heather 110z. rayon 4-way jersey; the striped top is made from lightweight cotton jersey with plenty crosswise and minimal lengthwise stretch. Both were extremely easy and quick to make, yet, I think are great wardrobe essentials.

On a separate note, the night when I made the tops, I also watched "My Sister's Keeper." I cannot remeber the last time I cried so much during a movie, but it has been a couple of years. It is one of those features that gets lodged in your brain and sticks with you, especially if you are a mother. So yes, if you have not seen it, see it; it is a brilliantly honest movie, albeit disturbing at times.

Answering questions from the comments section

2010-04-13T14:26:00.002-06:00

I was asked about the technique used to make the shoulder strap knot arounf the bust piece on my maxi dress. Below is the photo tutorial. The black ribbon represents the bust piece, and the pink ribbon is the shoulder strap:

I was also asked why I have used French seams on the silk DVF knock-off pant. I use French seams on sheers and silks. Why: 1. French semas give a professional finish. 2. Finishing seams on sheers in any other way would be, to me at least, visually unpleasing.

Maxi Dress With One-Shoulder Strap

2010-04-02T05:00:00.001-06:00

I did something I very rarely do: made two of the same pattern - in peach and in black.

The dresses I made have more gathers in the bust area than the original one, and I prefer it this way.

Material: black rayon jersey, 10 oz weight (my estimation); very lightweight

Although this is not intended to be a tutorial, here are the basic schematics and construction details for the dress:

Bodice: Both back and front are made from two pieces: the outside piece is cut with the to-be-gathered edge alonfg the crosswise grain, while the inside piece with the to-be-gathered edge along the lengthwise grain. The two pieces attach at the line where the schematic points at attaching elastic. The elastic is sewn in the seam. At the end of the post there are some sequential photos of the process.
Skirt:

Other notes on construction:

The seam that attches the skirt to the bodice is reinforced with 1/8" elastic (sewn into the seam;
Breast pads (from a swimming suit) inserted in the bodice (between the two layers). The pads from the craft store were too rigid and left a rather visible outline;
The shoulder band is attached only to the seam that joins bodice with skirt.

My DVF Allen Pants

2010-03-29T14:02:00.001-06:00

I posted about the DVF Allen pants one year ago, after seeing it in a magazine. It was for sale later on net-a-porter.com. Somehow I never got around to making it last year.

This pant is NOT to meant to be worn when pregnant, but it could be (provided you find the right top). As a matter of fact, it looked much better on me 3 weeks ago when I finished it and my "waist" was almost 2" smaller.

The original pant is made from a silk-blend (92% silk, 8% spandex). It has elasticated bands at hem, front pleats, side-slit pockets, and simply slip on. The elasticated casings at the waistband and at the hem are attached, not turned under. Also, the entire pant is constructed with French seams.

I decided to stick to the original as closely as I could, including the construction methods:

- French seams throughout:

- Attached WB and front pleating:

- Front pocket:

- Elasticated cuffs, turned up:

Black Silk Crepe Needed

2010-03-24T19:07:00.003-06:00

I am working on a project (pants) that requires black silk crepe or other silk or silk blend fabric with similar hand (must be very drapey but not sheer).
100% cupro will also work.
If anyone knows of a place that has this type of fabric, pls let me know!
Thanks,
Adriana

Copying Ivan Grundahl

2010-03-21T15:53:00.008-06:00

Some time ago I posted an outfit with an Ivan Grundahl top. See here: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__g8LzjkIdDk/S2t0ITAwBfI/AAAAAAAADVE/77SV6srDYOg/s1600-h/IMG_2202.JPG

Ivan Grundahl is a Danish designer with a rather conceptual point of view. You can check his recent work here: http://www.ivangrundahl.dk/index.php.

A local store had a few pieses by him last season. Although his stuff is expensive, most of the items in that store sold before getting down to my comfort price point; but I did manage to get the top for a tenth of the price.

This is the type of design you can never copy without having the original on hand. Recently I copied the pattern, made few (not significant) changes (lengthened it, neckline is a bit different), and replicated it in lightweigh wool jersey that ( I think) I bought from EOS awhile ago. The last picture shows the shape of the top.

BTW, I ordered the shoes from yoox.com for my birthday next month ( as present from DH), and although they are obviously very high, I really like the intricasy, the detail, everything. They just arrived and I still have not decided whether to keep them (because of the height), but wanted to have a picture with them!

Gray Sweats - How I Wore Them

2010-03-19T07:04:00.000-06:00

When I made the sweatpants and shirt (http://theprincessseam.blogspot.com/2010/02/isabel-marant-inspired-monochromatic.html), I promised I'll post photos of how I wore them. Here are the looks (it is all very casual):

What I Wore - March Layers

2010-03-16T21:34:00.002-06:00

Today started cold and ended balmy. I had to leave the house at 8am, so this is what I wore:

The leggings are cotton/lycra stirrups that I made couple of nights ago. The first of my layers is the white top with ruched sleeves (photo below) that I made in 3 colors last year:

Denim Skinny Jeans

2010-03-16T05:28:00.000-06:00

I got the idea for these jeans from the so called "jeggings," particularly the tupe that has elastic at the waistband (the jeans in the picture are the "Jem" by Goldsign (photos from madisonlosangeles.com)).

The way I went about it was to trace a pair of very skinny jeans I have, compare it to a leggings pattern, and take it from there.

Much like with any other project, finding the right fabric is critical, and it is NOT easy to find lighter-weight denim with suffucient stretch, good recovery, and nice soft feel (not if you are a home-sewer, anyway). For this project I requested some samples from http://www.lurasfabricshop.com/, but while I'm waiting, I decided to repurpose some never worn stretch Target bootcut jeans.

I am not sure why I bought the Target jeans in the first place. While the fabric weight and wash are nice, the pants were always big on me. To make things worse, the topstitching was gold lame - just awful, so I had to remove all topstiching ( had to keep the gold hardware, although I wish it was not gold...). Also, every single -seam, but the front pockets was undone.

Next, I positioned my pattern so that it works with what I had and with the back pockets position (had I moved the back pockets, marks would have been left on the fabric). Next, I did all the topstitching of the pockets with navy blue thread, removed the zipper, and closed the front closure for good. I did completely new outseam, inseam, hem, and back crotch. The front crotch seam from the original pant seemed to work, so I let it be.

For the waistband I used 3" wide waistband elastic from Joann (really good quality, actually, soft and does not roll). I cut it to the desired length, marked it at quarter points ( marked the pants accordingly), and sewed it to the pants. The original waistband was discarded.

That was pretty much it. The undoing of all seams has the tip of my fingers paining and worn out. On the upside, my husband asked when I had bought the pants, and I take this as a good sign.

Maxi Dress Muslin

2010-03-13T20:45:00.003-07:00

here is what I accomplished today with the muslin:

The back band is gathered (it was not in the original). I don't know how the original dress was done exactly, but the shoulder strap will be attached only at the seam that connects bodice with skirt.

I think I figured a way to do the bust area without misshaping the breasts (a concern that was duly noted in the comments). In short, the the front and back bands are constructed from two separate pieces that attach about 1" below the fold under the armpits. This seam is reinforced with a 1/4" elastic. Additionally, the front band is cut with more gathers for the outside layer that for the inside one. This allows for the inside layer to hold firm, while the outside layer drapes nicely.

I might insert breast pads as well, I am not sure (don't have any right now to try it).

The skirt is only basted to the bodice:

I am still not sure what I am going to do as far as color; however, after seeing the muslin on myself, I think I'll go with a solid.

What do you think?

Making a maxi dress and need your opinion

2010-03-12T14:44:00.003-07:00

This weekend (and however long after that it takes) I will be working on the muslin for this dress:

I want to make it floor length, otherwise I LOVE the design.

So, I am asking for an opinion: I think if it is floor length and black it will be too much? Do you agree? What color would you make it in (the collage below shows some of teh colors I'm leaning towards)? Do you think that a bust piece from jersey and a skirt piece from cotton voile print will work? Do you think the jersey from the picture below will work (it is very lightweight)?

Many questions, I know, but I'll really appreciate your input!

Full Layered Skirt

2010-03-11T00:49:00.002-07:00

I made this dress http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__g8LzjkIdDk/SkPaQkUG57I/AAAAAAAACwg/DHVlisGFXKU/s1600-h/front2.jpg last summer from cotton voile from gorgeousfabrics.com. I had some fabric left and thought it would work for a full skirt in color as the one I had planned for spring: see here http://theprincessseam.blogspot.com/2010/02/my-spring-plan.html.

The skirt has 2 layers and lining. The bottom layer is made using the stripe in the fabric vertically and the top layer using it horizontally. Both layers were treated as one and pleated at the waist. The pleating only reduces the width, it is not equal to the waist measurement (the waist is later gathered with elastic). Next, I lined the skirt, attached the waistband (made from two layers of fabric), and inserted elastic in it.

Stirrup Leggings

2010-03-08T19:39:00.002-07:00

When you are as short as I am, you have to hem just about anything, unless it is a cropped version because then it is just the right ankle length for me. Not a big deal, yet, it has prevented me from buying basic things, such as stirrup leggings (, because they cannot be hemmed shorter. Generaly, I don't like sewing basics. If I can buy a basic item at a decent price and it fits well, I'd rather not go through the fabric search process and spend valuable time making a plain tee or leggings. In this case, though, there was no available well-fitting RTW alternative.

I thought of buying the Jalie pattern for leggings ( it has a stirrup version), but then decided I could make my pattern just as easy. So I did.

For me, the pattern -making and fitting is less frustrating than fabric-hunting. In my opinion, the right fabric makes the difference between a home-made and professional-looking end-product. Ultimately, it plays a big part in whether you are going to wear what you've made, or stash it in your closet. Because of all this, I am very anal about fabric choice, and have made a lot of successful muslins that never crossed into a final garment stage due to lack of appropriate fabric.

For this project I used a fabric from EOS that is similar to the one you would use for riding pants. The sewing part is very easy and fast. The waisband is simply turned down, no elastic (the fabric properties allowed it in this case). Perhaps after the baby is born I'll change it to an encased elastic.

I am also planning of making a pair for summer, out of rayon-lycra thinner fabric.

Breastfeeding Cover

2010-03-07T13:06:00.006-07:00

If you think that this is a glorified apron, you are right! It is called a nursing cover...

I did not use a nurising cover when I nursed my daughter, just a shawl, or did it in the car. This time around, I decided I'll make one and see how it works. The photo on the left is the Bebe Au Lait Nursing cover (photo courtesy of nordstrom.com). I also used the instructions from this website: http://www.blisstree.com/breastfeeding123/free-pattern-to-sew-your-own-nursing-cover/.

The main (and very few feaurures) are: bonong between the straps , so you can see the baby, and a pocket in the lower right corner for breast pads, burp cloth, or what-not.

I think this makes a great ( and less common) present; it is also a very quick project!

My fabric is something I've had in my stash forever, and I happen to like lime green. The baby room is painted lime green actually, and before the builder did it, he called us at least twice to make sure we had given him the right paint color :)! It ended up loking beautiful, but the color of the paint in the can must have freaked the guy out! Below is a picture of the baby room from a few years ago when DD still lived there:

When she turned 3 y.o. we moved her to a big girl room:

GAP sweet discount codes!

2010-03-05T16:17:00.004-07:00

I have been liking GAP denim these days since they have revived their line under Patrick Robinson. I just found that currently they have 2 promos going:

Online: use coupon L1DQNN7G1GWN for free shipping if you get a denim item and GAPSAVE20 for 20% off of anything,
in store: bring in any old pair of denim (does not have to be GAP, can be Walmart, whatever) and get 30% off a pair of denim. The lady in the store told me that the old pairs are recycled for insulation of houses in New Orleans.

Sweet, no?

Thanks!!

2010-03-03T16:23:00.001-07:00

Thank you everyone for the fabric resource suggestions! I was able to locate somethings that I think may work and have requested samples!

Need Help Finding Fabric

2010-03-02T14:10:00.003-07:00

I have exhausted my usual resources, and need some help with finding:

sweatshirt fabric (not fleece)
lightweight denim with 5% or more lycra

I have finished the stirrups and the soft pant from my spring sewing list. Will photograph soon. Right now, I am working on the printed full skirt.

My Spring Plan

2010-02-26T16:49:00.016-07:00

We all know that plans don't always work out. Yet, I prefer having one. For this spring I have been thinking about:

1. Something with stripes:

(Torn, shopbop.com)

(Rag and Bone sweater, shopbop.com)
I have already ordered fabric from EOS but am not sure about the design.
2. Embellished sweatshirt:

(ADAM, shopadam.com)
I already embellished a sweatshirt with feather epaulettes, yet, I really want to try something sparkly, such as sequins or beading.

3. One shoulder or off-shoulder:

(Jiucy Couture, shopbop.com)

(Alice and Olivia, nordstrom.com)
I don't know if I will go with a top or a dress, but I like the whole shoulder-baring idea a lot!

4. Skin-color bodysuit or top:

(Celine, style.com)
Currently looking for the right color jersey.

5. Short print skirt:

(Leifsdottir, nordstrom.com)
Again, looking for fabric.
I am not sure what the design would be, whether it is going to be gathered in the waist, or draped (like the skirt from the Alice and Olivia dress above, but I've been faschinated with printed skirts and thought this was an easy way to bring in print in my wardrobe.

6. Soft Pant:

(Phillip Lim, style.com)

(Alexander Wang, style.com)

(DVF, outnet.com)
As a pant lover, I love this trend. Last summer I made one soft pant, I am planning on making another one. I actually have the fabric, and the muslin is finished.

7. Stirrup leggings:

(Falke, shopbop.com)

I know, this is less than exciting, but I've wanted a pair for a while. This one is actually already made, but I still have to take pictures.

Isabel Marant - Inspired Monochromatic Look

2010-02-17T12:26:00.017-07:00

I have always admired the French designer Isabel Marant's casually chic aesthetics. So, it was no big surprise that for my latest sewing project my inspiration came from her Spring 09 runway, (image to the left image courtesey of http://www.whowhatwear.com/).

The look is easy to emulate: a simple pair of lightweight gray sweatpants and an equally basic lightweight gray sweatshirt.

Below are a three more images that channel a similar look. From left: Lover fall; style blogger wearing Everlast sweat shorts; Alex Wang resort '10 sweat pants; Isabel Marant sweat pants from the spring/summer '09 runway.

(photos courtesey of refinery29.com)

The idea for the sweatshirt came from the two images (among others):

(Son of John sweater, shopbop.com) (www.faunae.com)

For the top I used a preexisting American Apparel lightweight sweatshirt. The feather epaulets were purchased from MJ Trimming. I also bought (from elsewhere) a pack of single feathers, and attached them to the feather patches to make them richer and to give them the shape I wanted (the original patched were feather-skimpy, in my opinion). After hand-sewing the feather epaulets to the sweatshirt, I steam-shaped them to conform to the shape of the shoulders.

Next, I drew a pattern for the sweatpants - very basic one – elastic casings at the waist and ankles and inseam pockets in the outseams. One important note, unless you are going for a dhoti pant, keep the rise reasonable (not exaggerated), but do not do a low-rise. I am an XS in RTW and went with 9” front rise. The point is, you are not making yoga pants; instead, you are going after a soft, loose look. After making the pant, I rolled the ankles twice, because it tapers the overall silluette.

As far as styling: I think that when you are going after a monochromatic look (layered or not), it is important to keep the ensemble paired down color-wise, with only one contrasting accessory – shoes, handbag, belt. I chose a silver gray narrow belt and gray booties. That left the feather epaulets as my single accessory, which breaks the monochromatic picture, when the sweater is worn by itself. Otherwise, I plan on wearing it with a gray, knit wrap and a wine-brown handbag.

Actually, speaking about gray and brown, I love gray with this rich medium brown (saddle) color, such as the bags below (from left: Botega Veneta and Banana republic), but don't own any leather goods in this beautiful color:

PS: Will post photos of me wearing the sweatshirt and pants some time very soon.

Pregnancy Style # 4 BD Party

2010-02-16T14:21:00.000-07:00

Although I don't typically wear shorter dresses, I finf they are just easier when you are pregnant. The dress below is a summer non-maternity dress, but I wore it with opaque tights and a turtleneck underneath. I also had a dark brown leather vest on, for warmth. The dress has an elasticated and belted waistline that is supposed to sit, naturally, on the waist. I, however, pulled the waistline higher (where I am narrower) and belted it there. It made the outfit shorter but wearable.

These suede peep-toe sandals, btw, are a pair of my most loved shoes. I snagged them on sale from theoutnet.com some time ago!

If you are wondering where we were going, we were off to a birthday party (princess themed) for a sweet 4 y.o. On the pictures, my daughter is on the top, to the right, and yes, she refused to wear the crown she had just decorated. I personally am not into the whole polyester princess garb, but then again, I was 4 y.o. more than three decades ago! The girls loved it!

Juki MO 644D For Sale - SOLD

2010-02-14T10:37:00.004-07:00

I am selling my Juki MO 644D. I bought an Imagine 1.5 yrs ago and have kept the Juki as a back-up since. It has been failure-free, super sturdy and reliable. I've loved it, raved about it on PR back when I bought it. I just don't need 2 sergers.

The machine, when new, sells for $400. I am selling mine for $200. Shipping is $20 (UPS Ground). Payment - Paypal.

The machine has been serviced regularly, including in the beginning of 2009 when the knives were changed. Since then I have used it on 2 or 3 garments.

Works with Organ needles. I am very anal about my stuff, and can guarantee it is in top used condition.

Comes and will ship in its original box, with the instruction book.

The only thing I may not have is the absolutely full list of accessories, but I have the most necessary ones (and the rest are dirt cheap generic ones you can get from any dealer).

I am also selling the 2/3 thread converter ($20 value), which you otherwise buy separately. It is used to make really fine rolled hems. BTW, the rolled hem without the converter are just about the best I have seen, and I have compared to the best of the PFAFF, Berninas, and etc.

If you are unfamiliar with the machine's features:

•Color Coded Threading System for easy threading
3-Thread Overlock
•3-Thread Wrapped Overlock
•4-Thread Mock Safety Stitch
•Flatlock
•Blind Hem
•Rolled Hem-3 differnt sizes
•Differental Feed
•Adjustable Stitch Width
•Adjustable Stitch Length
•Sews 1,500 Stitches Per Minute
•Comes with Universal Throat Plate
•Easy Tension Adjustment
•Weighs only 15 pounds

If you are interested, want pictures, email me at lenush2003@yahoo.com.

Projects in Queue

2010-02-13T10:34:00.009-07:00

Couple of days ago I received my tiny order from MJ Trimming. Unfortunately, the most anticipated item is backordered, so I'll have to wait 6 wks for it to arrive. Then, one of the other things I ordered was in less than perfect condition, and MJ is reshipping it. I hate when things like this one happen; you are all pumped up and then you have to wait.

Meanwhile, I went to Joann and got some materials to possibly fix the less then perfect item, and I think I succeeded. Today and/or tomorrow I am hoping to have my project finished and will post about it. Hint: it is one of those DIY designer embellishments I posted earlier about, and it involves feathers!

While in Joann I also got a cheap knit for muslins. Yesterday morning I was browsing the blogs I follow, and Grechen from http://grechenscloset.com/ had posted a link to the RTW by L’Agence. I knew nothing about the line, which apparently is brand new, launched in 2008 by the famed L.A. agent Margaret Maldonado. Another thing I learned was that each collection is guest-designed by fashion's most talented stylists. Back-story aside, I was drawn to the neutral easy-chic, effortlessness, and the diaphanous sensuality of the line. I decided to try and replicate, perhaps interpret, some of the pieces.

The most challenging (because I want it exactly the way the designer made it) and most desirable piece, for me, is the criss-cross back maxi dress:

Ialso really like the maxi skirt, which I'd probably make in black:

Lastly, they had two tops that appealed to me. This loose scoop-neck one:

And this oversized, off-the-shoulder top/tunic:

Pregnancy style # 3 - Military

2010-02-10T17:25:00.003-07:00

This post could also have been called "Shopping Your Wardrobe." Since the recession hit, this seeems to be a popular topic.

A pregnant reader commented that she finds it difficult to dress her body. I agree. It is not easy. Affordable maternity clothing is quite wack size-wise, and the designs are rather dowdy. There are places where you can buy really nice maternity wear, however, I am opposed to spending major money for pieces that will be worn for only a few months. I suppose that would make sense in case this is your 1st pregnancy and you plan on being pregnant 2-3 more times. Not my case.

Right now, I am determined to hold off buying/making anything maternity till I absolutely have to. I simply select looser styles from what I already have. For example, almost everything in the pictures below has been owned for a long time (the boots for more than 8-9 years). The only reletively new item is the pant, which I got from the GAP sale. Actually, speaking of the GAP, since Patrick Robinson took over the GAP creatively, I have really been pleasantly surprised by what I seee in their stores.

Btw, I have never worn red lipstick, but yesterday I got this one from the Lancome counter yesterday, and actually like both the texture (it's their long lasting one) and the color.

(GAP cargo paint splatter pants, GAP military parka, Marshiall's sweater and tank, rabbit fur vest purchased locally, and brown studded boots from loooong time ago)

Pregnancy Style #2

2010-02-08T15:25:00.000-07:00

This is the second post to the "Pregnancy Style" feature.

I think layering can get you far in the 1st and 2nd trimesters of pregnancy. I like longer and lighter underlayers and shorter and darker top layers. Note on pants: I got these Blank jeans from the Saks Outlet and I wanted to comment on them. They look 100% as jeans, however, the fabric is not denim. I believe it is cotton something with a lot of stretch. Citizens has a similar jeggings style(also in black), but with a higher rise, and I think it is a new style for the brand, hence, selling at full price. Anyway, Tthe Blank jeggings are perfect for my situation because they stretch a lot, have a very low front rise, keep their shape, and stay up. Oh yes, they have zippers at the bottom outseam, so I can wear them over heals without having to scrunch!

Here I am leaving for class:

(wearing Blank jeans, Inhabit cottton t-shirt, Ivan Grundahl sweater, DIY tube scarf, and DIY necklace)

I maded the necklace some time ago when I had a jewelry-making phase. back then I posted detailed photos of the few pieces I made. Anyway, I love this one. It is so simple - antigue-finished chain laced with leather cord and knotted at the bottom. It has turned out to be incredibly versatile. I have worn it tens and tens of times.

Easy to DIY Designer Details - Spring 2010

2010-02-04T18:33:00.005-07:00

1. This first idea is as easy as it can possibly be. You need a tank and ribbon. Of course, the ribbon pieces can be made at home from silk or silk-like fabric. You'll need to decide where you would like to attach the ribbon, cut the tank straps there, and attach the ribbon pieces.

(Nordstrom.com)

2. This is a Philip Lim cardigan. The design is, obviously, for a wrap cardigan, yet, I think it wil work on a regular one as well. I tried to decipher the material of the ribbons, and I think they are from a silk-like material, or possibly silk (not sure though). In my opinion, a soft velvet ribbon will work as well.

(Nordstrom.com)

3. For this last project, which is a Gryphon sweatshirt, you will need to find a premade crystal-sequin applique (mjtrim.com has those, and possibly many other retailers). If the applique is smaller, you can apply a piece to each shoulder, is an epaulette manner (se below); or you can go with a larget applique and attach to one shoulder only (such in the Gryphon design). This one is perhaps my favourite projects of teh three. I like the how the sporty fabric and cut are dresses up (but not too much) my the sparkly applique. I am thinking of trying this one out.

(Gryphon sweatshirt, Nordstrom.com)

(Son of John pullover, shopbop.com)

Pregnancy Style #1

2010-02-04T18:18:00.005-07:00

I am starting a "Pregnancy Style" feauture on my blog. I plan on documenting (at least once a week) what I will wear during my pregnancy.

So, let's begin. I wore this outfit when the whole family went to the outlets and then had a late lunch at a local Mexican restaurant.

( dark purple Inhabit cashmere sweater, gray pleated skirt, Long woolen cardigan, gray scarf, black hose, and gray suede ankle booties)

Draped Skirt Tutorial

2010-02-03T13:00:00.001-07:00

I have recently found this tutorial for a very interestingly draped skirt:
http://life-in-travel.blogspot.com/2009/07/skirt.html

As a matter of fact, the entire blog “Life in Travel”( http://life-in-travel.blogspot.com/) is an intriguing read on fashion, style, cuisine, and travel. I thought this particular DIY is quite worthy of mentioning for both its design uniqueness and construction simplicity.

Maternity Pants with Maternity Panel

2010-01-30T19:55:00.013-07:00

I wrote this tutorial 2 years ago when I was first starting my blog. Since the quality of maternity sewing patterns, in my opinion, has not improved much, I decided to edit my tutorial (the initial version was not very clear), and re-post it.

There are three ways you can go about sewing a maternity pant:

1. Adapt an existing non-maternity pant that you can pull over your hips,

2. Adapt a sewing pattern for a non-maternity pant , and

3. Draft a pant pattern yourself and adapt it to use while pregnant.

Either way, the steps you go through are about the same.

I will begin with some notes on the fabric for the project:
1. Pant fabric: Regardless whether you are sewing the pant or using a RTW one, you want the fabric to have at least 5% crosswise stretch to it. I used the word "want," because you don't have to go with stretchy fabric. Nonetheless, crosswise stretch will be practical and more comfortable.
2. Fabric for panel: must have 4-way stretch and must be nice on touch.

Starting point:

1. If you are not going to be drafting your pattern, choose a pattern for a non-maternity pant. You must choose one according to your current hip measurement (the waist measurement really doesn’t matter). Also, needless to say, a patern with a lot os details at the waist or just below, will be impractical. The pattern must be for a flat-front pant. The back pockets can be preserved, however, the front pockets will have to be eliminated.

2. If you are using a RTW pant, it must fit you around the hips (the fit at the waist is irrelevant). Additionally, it must be a flat-front pant, and idealy will have no front pockets.

Next, you must prepare the pattern/RTW pant:

1. If you are sewing the pant (self-drafted or not), make the muslin leaving the top 3” from the side seams unsewn. Also, sew only about 3.5” from the front crotch. At this point you have to do a fitting and determine how the pants fit you in the hips and thighs, and do the necessary alterations .

2. If you are using a RTW pant, remove the waistband, unstitch the top 3” from the side seams, undo the front closure, remove the front zipper, and keep only about 3.5” from the front crotch sewn up.

Next, you have to establish where the "waistline" would be (at this point, a fitting buddy or even a willing husband/bf could be helpful, but I have done it by myself). Bear in mind that this is not a regular waistline, and I am using the word loosely. What I am refering to here and below, is the line where the pant will connect with the maternity panel. To determine the location of this waistline, mark a line that:

1. On the front: is just under the lowest part of your pregnant tummy. It is very easy to tell since the line should be right under the pregnancy bulge,

2. On the back: start from the side seam and continue in an upward direction aiming to hit the point of your natural (pre-pregnancy) waist at the CB.

The line (especially on the front) can look crooked. Straighten it as much as you can without disturbing the natural curvature of your body.

At this point you either transfer the marks on your pattern or remove what is above the marked line on your RTW pant (but remember to leave 0.5" for seam allowance).

Here is the sketch of the front and back of the pants:

Next, you have to make the maternity panel. I prefer the extended version that goes to just below your breasts, but you can go with any height you consider comfortable, even with a fold-down. The instructions below are for the extended version, however, it is easy to infer from them how to make a less high panel or a fold-down one.

You can buy lycra fabric (or other fabric with great recovery) for the panel. I prefer to use a seamless RTW lycra tank top. Alternatively, you can buy a maternity band from Target (a high-quality knock-off of the Bella Band). The advantage to using a tank top or a maternity band is the seamless-ness. If you are making the panel from fabric, decide on the width: it must go around the widest pat of your belly, be snug, but not compressing.

Now, you must put on the pants and pull your self-made panel/tank top/maternity band over your belly. The bottom of the panel must be over the previously marked waistline. Using chalk or a marking pen, mark the waistline from the pant on the panel. Next, determine how high you want your panel to be, and chalk-mark it on the panel. Make sure to add 0.5" seam allowance at the bottom line of the panel and 4" seam allowance at the top. If you are using a maternity band, you can use the top end of it and not change anything about it (it is tight as it is, and does not need elastic to stay up). Of course, if you are using a maternity band, the top line of the panel wil be straight, as opposed to curved (as on the sketch below). I prefer a curved line, for it covers the belly more adequately. Therefore, if you want a curved top line, use a self-made panel ot a tank top.

Here is the sketch of the maternity panel:

Sewing the maternity panel:

1. If you are making your own panel: sew the single side seam first,

2. Fold under 2” and zigzagg/topstitch it down,

3. Insert 1.5” wide elastic in the casing. If you want a narrower elastic, adjust the casing accordingly.

Lastly, you have to attach the panel to the pant. I'd use my serger to do so, however, if you don't have a serger, you can do it with your sewing machine using a small zigzag.

Here is a close-up of the extended panel attached:

This is how the pants look under a shirt (the panel is completely concealed):

This technique can be used for a skirt as well.

Have been away from my blog for a while...

2010-01-29T13:08:00.009-07:00

I have been absent from my blog for a long time. I am not going to apologize; it is a personal blog, after all; you post when you feel inspired, or have something to share.

Recently, I have not been inspired to sew or create anything. I don't know if this will change soon; for now, it is what it is. meanwhile, I have been looking at the spring-summer trends and collections, and I am yet to be inspired (there seems to be a lot of reiteration).

I have some news, though. I am 15 weeks pregnant with our 2nd child. I went through a grueling 12 weeks of feeling nauseated from morning till evening. makes you wonder why the condition is called "morning sickness." I don't know the gender of the baby, yet, I feel oddly sure it is going to be a boy. One way or another, I will know in a few weeks. I did some pregnancy-wear sewing last time around; I don't know if I'd do it again. For now, I fit in my regular clothing, thank goodness!

We have told Emma she is going to be a big sister, and she is very excited about it. Knowing her personality, she will be awesome at nurturing a younger sibling. She is already planning on all the things she will teach her younger brother or sister. However, she is concerned that it will hurt me when the baby comes out, and has been trying to make me promise I would not cry. I have not committed to any bravery! I also explained to her how the baby is going to come out (through where), and she thought it was "silly."

On a separate note, I am finishing my degree this spring, yay!

Anywho, here are two photos of me:

Btw, if anyone is pregnant out there: Do yourself a favor and get a Boppy full body pillow! i did not do it with Emma, and have lived to regret it. It makes sleeping at night a much smoother experience. It is retails for $50-$60, and is money wisely spend, in my opinion!

More Hawaii...

2009-11-24T19:28:00.004-07:00

As promised, here are some more photos from Hawaii:

Love these two photos:

There was a wedding in the yard and this photo is taken after the ceremony was over:

Quick Pictorial Update

2009-11-17T23:35:00.003-07:00

A month of no blogging is a long time. This is just a quick update of what has happened since my last post.

First, two of my favourite pictures of Mom's stay with us in October:

In the end of October we had a serious snow storm in Colorado. Emma and Sig got a chance to build a snowman. Emma was very proud!

Then, it was November and we flew to Hawaii! We are still here!

Emma found a friend:

Sig is building huge castles/forts with Emma's friend's Dad:

There are some other really exceptional photos from Hawaii but that will be a whole other post!

Wishing Star Farm

2009-10-15T22:19:00.006-06:00

I, Emma, and my Mom (visiting from Bulgaria) went to a pumpkin patch today. The Place is called the Wishing Star Farm and is actually more than a pumpkin patch. They have animals you can pet, including a camel, a huge slide, give hay rides, pony rides, and choo-choo train rides. Emma loved it, and my Mom and I enjoyed it too. Here are some photos:

This is my favourite one:

Love the colors of this picture:

Some of the fun activities:

The rabbits were a huge hit:

Isn't this pig gorgeous! The pink and gray colors are so pretty! The pig's name was Emma too... Oh well...

2009-10-02T19:01:00.005-06:00

I have been tagged by Josie at http://josiesews.blogspot.com/ with the Kreativ Blogger award.

I haven't sewn much at all recently due to the rest of my life keeping me too busy, and I have not even blogged much, so I apologize.

In response to the nomination, I am asked to tell you seven things you don't know about me and nominate seven creative bloggers.

1. I don’t like my calves much, therefore, I rarely wear skirt, dresses, or shorts. i know I have to get over it, but...
2. I don’t drink alcohol but love Baileys in my ice cream.
3. I met my husband online.
4. Love dance, ballet, and musicals. Opera – no. BTW, I am an awful singer and as dancer don’t have any talent either.
5. I like to make silly rhymes, add music, and sing them out loud. It is actually awful.
6. I feel uncomfortable surrounded by many people. I suppose I feel socially awkward.
7. Short of loving the occasional piece of Genoa salami, ham or turkey in my salad, I don’t eat meat. And I don’t eat bread. There is no particular reason to any of this. It just happened over the years.

On the nomination of 7 people requirement, I would only say that there are many people whose creativity I enjoy and get inspired by. I want to thank everyone who takes the time to post their work online. It is an effort that takes time and thought and I want to ackmnoledge it.

DIY Balmain

2009-09-27T22:15:00.009-06:00

This DIYs are not by me. i found them while randomly surfing and thought I'd share.

The first DIY I found on the "Hey You - Get Off My Cloud" blog. It is for a tee adorned with crystals. Check it here http://www.bloglovin.com/m/46540616/0 or here http://heyyou-getoffofmycloud.blogspot.com/2009/09/diy-1.html

The second DIY is from "Style Scrapbook" blog. It is for for the famous Balmain jacket with the rope-like adornments on the front and on the shoulders. See it here http://www.stylescrapbook.com/2009/01/diy-balmain.html

Both are very much worth checking into!

Fall Lusts

2009-09-27T17:27:00.006-06:00

Here are some of my favourite pieces for the fall:

I love this dress by ISSA. The designer is Daniella Issa Helayel and I know nothing about her. Her Fall 2009 collection of dresses, however, is delightful with its tropical palette and variety of hem lengths and necklines. The dress below is something that I'd like to make and I am open to suggestions about fabrics and patterns.

Remember I planned on making a blazer with Balmain-like shoulders? Well, it did not work out... Drafting a blazer from scratch turned out to be more that I could handle considering my time restraints. Fortunately, I found an affordable ZARA blazer that features exaggerated shoulders. The Future Classics coat below is an reiteration on the same theme. I think it is a beautiful, sexy, smart crossover between a dress and a coat. I suppose what attracts me most to it is the predatory silhouette. Love how it is styled with a hoodie underneath making it suddenly young and less serious.

This is the Enright Pant by Shipley and Halmos. This is the silhoette that I'd wear every day. I cannot find a pattern for a pant that skinny, so, pls help me out with that!

I love what Preen line has done this fall: body-con silhoettes adorned with pleats, zippers, just awesome! The Zip Hobbie Top by Preen Line is a piece that I could never replicate, yet, I thought I'd share it because it features one of my favourite trends - adornment through zipppers. Although I have no specific thoughts yet, I think I will attempt to make a garment that is embelished with zippers.

I kept the Preen Line biker pants for last. I WANT these pants so bad!!! The skinny, yet pleated at waist design is truly appealing to me. Again, if I find a pattern for a really skinny pant, I'd be able to adapt it, but so far no luck with the pattern. Aren't they just gorgeous though!

BTW, how about the Zanotti ( at least I think they are by G. Zanotti) peep-toe booties in the last two pics!

Note: all photos courtesy of forwardforward.com

Ripped hose? Really??

2009-09-25T22:10:00.007-06:00

A very fashionable person (cannot remember who exactly) once said that part of sophistication is sitting out on some trends. A simple, yet profound thought, no?

So, here is a trend I AM sitting out (while truly wondering why so many people, from the runway to the street, are doing it):

Little Girly Stuff

2009-09-15T07:42:00.001-06:00

I am not a good photographer, yet, I love snapping random pictures of my girl. I love all her facial expressions and especially those when she is thoughtful or focused (as in the second batch).

BTW, the furry vest she wears, I got it a year ago from GAP and sure wish I had gotten it in her size and a size larger (I truly dislike sewing with faux-fur, too messy). She absolutely loves it and wears it ALL the time (really)!

Hippy Monday

2009-09-14T12:35:00.003-06:00

I love Colorado Indian summer. The colors, the weather, the coziness.. It also allows for fun dressing through layering and adding texture.
My daughter had dance today and I snapped some pictures of what I wore

Free People top, Paige Premium Denim jeans, Banana republic midheel pums, LaRok vest

Under My Trenchcoat (well, it's a nail color)

2009-09-10T20:24:00.002-06:00

In reality the color looks more gray-taupe. It may be just me, but I love it. This is my first Sephora by OPI and I fund the color more durable and chip-resistent than the original OPI.

SEPHORA by OPI

Under my Trenchcoat

SE 008

The Color Gray - The New Black

2009-08-28T20:46:00.008-06:00

I have always been attractes to gray, pretty much ever since middle school. Why? Well, first, it is a neutral color and hence, goes with everything, second, it comes in all nuances, third, is much less severe than black, forth, is more fun than black, fifth, gray shoes look awesome with matter gray hosiery, sixth, great for work, seventh, looks sophisticated, etc.

I have always wondered why would retailer make clothes in gray, yet, not manifacture accessories and shoes in this staple color. Well, right now, there are plenty of shoes, handbags, and belts out there in different shades of gray.

For the collages below I used only major retailers, such as Ann Taylor, J Crew, and Banana Republic. I decided to go with them because of their accessability, generally good price points, frequent promotions/sales, and more classic designs. And, btw, I am not affiliated with any of them, in any way.

These pumps are classic enoughto last through the fashion seasons:

From left to right: Banana Republic, Ann Taylor, J Crew, and J Crew again

Love these fancier J Crew pumps. The pink trim and the flower make it so much fun! I'd actually really love to own a pair!

I own a pair of gray boots actually. Cannot tell you enough how versatile they turned out to be. Wore them all winter and got tons of compliments for them.

From left: Banana Republic and J Crew

If you still like your footwear black, escape tha matchy-matchy world and cinch your waist with a gray or charcoal belt like the one below from Ann Taylor.

If you are tired of toting a black bag in fall and winter, try a gray one. I have a gray bag and a gray clutch and have found that they are greatly versatile.

All handbags J Crew

Lastly, I find gray clothes to be a great neutral canvas to use funky colors with. a basic example below: A slate J Crew puffer can be cinched with a neon pink skinny belt (again J Crew). I have this very same puffer and cinching it makes you look like you have really long legs, regardless of being 5'3" (in my case).

Our NYC Visit - a Photo Story

2009-08-15T22:46:00.007-06:00

We are back, the laundry is done, and I am happy to be home.

There is so much to see and do in NYC and it was not my purpose to do it all, I wanted to rather enjoy it and take it easy.

Emma and I saw The Lion King on Broadway, and it was quite spectacular!

This photo was taken outside of our hotel. And yes, the police presence was due to our arrival! Just kidding! On our first full day, Friday, Emma and I walked from 42nd st and 2nd Ave to 66th st and 5th Ave, across Central Park to Broadway, and then back to our hotel. Naturally, I got a huge headache the day after.

On Saturday my husband, Emma, and I went to Central Park. This is a picture Sig took and I thought it was beautiful:

This is me by one of the lakes:

And this is Emma: Ice-cream and kissing:

On Sunday my headache evolved into a migraine + toothache and I stayed in the hotel. Emma and her Dad took the train to the Aquarium in Brooklyn:

After the Aquarium they enjoyed a boardwalk on the beach:

Followed by a visit to Times Square:

Playing bashful with one of NY's finest:

Later during the week Emma and I went to the Central Park Zoo. It was scorchingly hot and humid and I for a moment I felt like jumping in the pool with the seals. Emma, however, felt more like smelling the flowers:

And feeding the sheep:

The day after we visited the Museum of Natural History. It was really crowded and Emma was scared by some of the exhibits. She did, however, enjoy the mamals but was not satisfied by my answers as to why they were not moving.

There was a playgroung by the hotel and this is us there:

Our hotel was in immediate proximity to the UN building and these are some pics from there:

It was after 5pm and the flags were down, unfortunately...

Sewing-wise, I got some hard to find in notions from the Garment District, no fabric (by choice)!

Big thanks again to a fellow sewer and blogger for kindly meeting us there for a lunch and a visit to Pacific Trims.

We also went to SoHo where we went to what feels like 100 shops. I got some pretty good ideas from Scoop.

I've loved Zara since I first saw there stores in Belgium many years ago, so, naturally, we spent considerable time there.

Visiting NYC feels like a lot of work, really. Still, if my husband's project gets extended after Xmas, we may visit there again next year.

Upcoming NYC Visit

2009-08-01T17:30:00.002-06:00

On Thursday I am leaving for NYC for a week.

I have been there only once for a day trip that included a Statute of Liberty visit, so I cannot stress enough how much I DO NOT know the city.

I am hoping that a New Yorker is reading my blog because I need some reccommendations: where to eat, what to visit, where to shop, etc.

I have already consulted Lindsay T's guide and interactive map to fabric shopping in NYC but am hoping to glean into other stuff that can be done while there, and that is off the tourist-beaten path.

As a point of reference, we will be staying very close to the United Nations building and I have a 3.5 y.o.

Thank to everyone in advance,

Adriana

Maison Martin Margiela (MMM) Oversized Clutch

2009-07-23T20:23:00.004-06:00

I have been trying to get inspired and while it has proved difficult, I think I found something that gives me ideas.

You maybe have come across Judy Aldridge's blog http://atlantishome.typepad.com/, and if you have not, you must check it out. Its DIy section is small but she is a very stylish lady. Anyway, this is a link to a Maison Martin Margiela (MMM) clutch that she has http://atlantishome.typepad.com/.a/6a0105364db45b970c0115702278c0970c-pi.

It is bright and oversized and I like everything about this combo. I really like the yellow color but I think other brights would work too.

So, I can make this, no problem. The problem is, however, where do I find a quilted fabric like that?

If anyone has an idea, please share!

Then again, perhaps I can find faux (or genuine) leather and do the quilting myself, but I have never done leather before, much less quilted with leather. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Then, last question. Assuming I go with fabric, how do I pretreat the fabric so it is stain and water resistent? Is there any product that I can use at home?

Lastly, some eye-candy... I have been lasting over three pairs of booties that I'd likely never own:

Givency Wedge Ankle Boots

Miu Miu Textured Boots, my favourites:

Prada Boots

DIY Balmain Shoulder Pads

2009-07-22T20:34:00.002-06:00

I have not blogged for a while. Part of it is because I have been transitioning to a new computer on account of my old one dying on me. The other part is that I have not sewn. Today, however, I came upon this blog: http://www.stylecopycat.com/. Its most current article is on DIY Balmain shoulder pads. So, I though I'd share...

Happy 4th and a Question

2009-07-04T12:38:00.003-06:00

Happy 4th of July to Everyone!

Now, back sewing. I have a dilemma I have to solve. I love sewing clothes; home dec, accessories, handbags - not so much, unless I absolutely have to and need to. On the other hand, I have many clothes, MANY! As a matter of fact, I do not need more clothes at all! DD is pretty much the same way, besides, with her being terrified by pins, it is harder to sew for. My husband doesn't want me to sew for him. So, what do I do? Do I just continue making stuff for myself regardless that I may not need it, per se?

Hope everyone enjoys the holiday weekend and their family!

One-Shoulder Draped Dress Or What Happens When You Play With Fabric

2009-06-24T14:15:00.000-06:00

Last summer I was playing with a large yardage of fabric and ended up draping it around myself in different diaphonous styles. It was a fun and eye-opening experience. Then, some time in May I came upon this beautiful silk Philip Lim dress (photo from bergdorfgoodman.com):

Oh, I loved it! I loved the free-form, the play with the stripe, the cute haletr effect, everything.

So, I started playing around with some fabric again, draping it on my dress form and on me. The style of the Lim dress did not work out for me, so I gave up. Then, a few days later I decided to try again something different, and my draping attempts ended up with these two variations of the same draped muslin:

Here is how I determined what orientation the srtipe should have:

It was kind of perfect: long, drapey, grecian-goddesss style, utilized stripe in the design, and one-shoulder! I have always wanted a one-shoulder top/dress!

I needed the right fabric, though, because for this style the fabric either makes or kills the dress. Quite luckily, I had a beautiful cotton voile bought from gorgeousfabrics.com last fall. It was one of those whilsical buys when you get a rather unique looking fabric with no particular idea what you'd make from it.

Two photos of the back:

Constructions details:

fully lined in a taupe rayon
french seams
narrow hem
the dress is cut somewhat on a bias (the stripe of the fabric was vertical and I was after a slightly-off effect).
neckline is stabilized with interfacing strips.

The sewing part was obviously very straight-forward. Marking the hem, however, was a BEAR (from the grisley variety)! It took just about forever... Even DH got involved with marking the hem of the lining, so, yeah, it was something to remember.

I love the dress. It makes me feel pretty! And here it is with a jeans jacket:

Silk Pants and Top - ohhhhhhhhhh, the luxury....!

2009-06-20T22:10:00.001-06:00

Soooo... I became an American citizen today! Exciting! About 30 people (including one refugee) from 23 countries were sworn today during the ceremony. I liked that it was a small ceremony (as opposed to a couple hundred people). It was touching actually and the lady who presided the ceremony was charmingly nervous. She said something that I thought was really worth mentioning. She said that her grandparents who arrived from Europe never talked to her (when she was a child) about why they chose to move, how they did it, what they had to go throught, etc. Then she added she really wished they had shared that with her. She went on addressing the people who were to be sworn to please share their stories with their children because it is important to know where you come from. DD (who is the only born in the USA in my family) got a flag, although what she was really eyeing were the balloons...

So, there!

Back to sewing. Back when I made my wool pleated pants I wrote I wanted to use the same pattern for a pair of silk bottoms. I used the same Burds WOF pattern , but omitted the back welt pockets. Why? Well, frankly, the hassle of making welt pockets on twitchy silk was not worth it.

The fabric I used is from my local Textile-o-Philes store. I used the silk to make the pockets and the binding too. I purchased the silk for the pants and the top together, I think they compliment each other so nicely!

Perhaps some of you might wonder how it was to sew pants from silk. It was not a piece of cake (definitely advanced intermediate level sewing skills necessary) but it was not bad either. I have one advise and I cannot stress enough how much following it helped me: thread-trace and baste! Since silk is so slippery, thread tracing helped keeping seams straight and avoided all the second-guessing. Basting helped prevent undoing seams, which with silk cam be desastrous. Also, on all visible from the right side seams I used Sulky 100% rayon thread. Due to the shine of the thread it blends well with the silk and the stitching does not become an unwanted "design element."

Silk Tank

2009-06-18T10:14:00.001-06:00

This is a project I finished long time ago but did not photograph untillately.

It all started by me liking the new loosely cut tops, like the ones below from Alexander Wang and Rag and Bone (courtesy of shopbop.com and nordstrom.com). The cut is sexy in a subdued way.

I posted earlier that I intended to use Burda 7661 View B but then did not and drafted it by myself, copying the armhole of a tank I have. This is the muslin I made a few months ago:

Fabric: Floral silk charmeuse from my local fabric store Textile-o-Phile http://shop.textileophile.com/main.sc;jsessionid=9ADA420BB3C7982D88C538DCF692B430.qscstrfrnt01. The lining is also silk from the same store. I love the watercolor-ish print and the muted colors.

Construction:
The top consists of essentially 2 tops, shell and lining, attacked at the armholes and neckline. That, of course, eliminated the need for facing.
The hem is finished with a narrow hem.

Somehow it took me two muslins but I ended up with something I was truly happy with.

On Reliving the 80's - Strapless Jersey Jumpsuit

2009-06-16T15:02:00.005-06:00

In the 80's I was a kid living in a communist country, so no, sort of the cold war, I did not get to experience that decade. My husband still finds it perplexing that I do not recognize bands/tunes/movies from that era, and I understand how a Westerner would find it difficult to comprehend what it was behind the Berlin wall, from a cultural perspective, that is. What I do remember though is the AWFUL hair and I hope that trend never gets resurrected.

Anyway, perhaps because I never got to truly experinece the 80's, I am now transfixed with some of the trends that reinterpret that decade, namely jumpsuits. If you think that it is hard to find RTW that fits, then it is three times that hard to find a fitting jumpsuit. Luckily, I can sew.

I was trying to find a photo of my inspiration piece and the website I saw it at is sold out, hence no photo. You can still see it here http://www.intermixonline.com/product/designers/helmut+lang/strapless+jersey+jumpsuit.do?sortby=ourPicks but the photographs really did not capture the details. What you won't see in the photos is a pretty cool drapey "Pattern Magic"-type design feature in the back. I have no ides how it was done and did not try to replicate it since it would have only been distinguishable if the piece was worn unbelted, which I did not intend to do.

The drafting was not hard, particularly since I have already drafted a jumpsuit couple of weeks before. The fullness at the chest and the length of the rise needed the most work/decisions. Once the pattern was made, the sewing part was a breeze, it took me couple of hours from cutting all the way through having it compeltely done.

I made it from a rayon jersey I got in the fall from EOS.

More photos:

(btw, it is very hard to photogrpah black, especially when you are doing it yourself, so pls excuse the not so great quality of the photos. I wanted to wait to DH who has aprofessional camera, but he is here only during the weekends and the weekends have been lacking sun recently.)

Closer-ups:

Notes on design features & construction:

strapless, pull-on style
pleated front and back
a pleat at the side seam overlapping from front to back
1.5" elastic sewn to top and then turned under
reinforced front and back crotch

I am very happy with the was it turned out. It is actually better than I thought it would be! In summation - I LOVE it and hope to wear it a lot this summer!

Quick Update

2009-06-15T15:43:00.001-06:00

I passed my Immigration Interview last Tuesday and my oath ceremony is this Saturday!
Thanks for all the good wishes!

Beaded Belt

2009-06-08T21:40:00.000-06:00

Thanks to everyone who wished me luck on the interview! I'll let you all know the result.

So, late this afternoon I realized I did not have passport photos for the interview tomorrow. Not good... I had to go to Walgreens and take care of that. I could have gone in my sweats, however, since there are a few things I've made and have not photographed yet, I decided to get dressed. The weather around 6pm was cool, so I could not wear any of the summer garments I've sewn, however, I still managed to incorporate the beaded belt I made.

The belt is made from the same beaded trim I used for my necklace. Obviously, all you need is trim and snaps, very easy!

I have worn it with a plain white tee, with an oversized gray tee, with a white button-down, there are plenty of options. It dresses up simple tops and since it is in itself jewelry-like, you don't have to wear any other.

Here is how I wore it today:

Update

2009-06-08T12:35:00.002-06:00

I apologize for not having posted in a long time. I am taking an intensive 5-week course that is normally taught over a 14-week period. Although I don't find the material difficult, there is a lot of reading and writing involved which takes a lot of time.

I am also scheduled for my citizenship interview and test tomorrow afternoon, so I had to prepare for that as well.

DH started traveling again and is away 4 days a week. DD is, of course, missing him and clinging to me more than usual.

All in all, I have no sewing time. I started a puffy skirt 2 weeks ago that I am yet to finish. I also have some things that have been finished for a while now but the weather has been so unpleasant that I am still to take photos of them.

Hopefully the interview/test tomorrow will go smoothly.

I'll try to post a finished project by the end of the week.

Adriana

San Francisco - YAY!!!!

2009-05-30T19:39:00.004-06:00

We are in San Francisco for a long weekend vacation. It is a beautiful city and we are loving it! We went to the Golden Gate bridge, Golden Gate garden (the Japanese Tea Garden and the oldest public playground in the U.S), Solsalito, China town, Swan Oyster Depot and many other places, including gorgeous Solsalito.

These are some of the photos we took (if DH is not in the picture, he is the one who took it, and I think he did a wonderful job).

Racerback Tank Maxi Dress

2009-05-17T19:54:00.000-06:00

I have made no secret my love for Helmut Lang His maxi racer back tank dress (photos at the end of the post, courtesy of bloomingdales.com).is a piece that I've admired ever since it made it to the retailers. So, I made something similar. I changed the front neckline to a less deep one and the underarm curve is higher also.

What I like about this design is the understated simplicity which renders itself to so many options as far as accessorizing. I can also see myself wearing the dress with a motocycle vest, leather jacket, or a fluid wrap.
Here ( I was leaving for the DIA to drop-off DH) the dress is worn with a jersey wrap/cozy worn in one of the dozens ways it can be styles. This video http://www.dkny.com/womens/cozy_video.html illustrates some of the ways and is really worth watching.

I used the pattern I had previously made for the racer back tanks, elongated it, and widened it at the hem.

The fabris is gray rayon jersey from http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/.

Tje original Helmut Lang dress:

Fiona Paxton Inspired Necklace - Tutorial

2009-05-15T14:20:00.006-06:00

In the comments to my previous post I was asked to provide a tutorial on how to make the necklace.

This is how:

Materials needed:

Beaded trim - 1" to 1.5" wide

Beads, beading needle and cord/thread

Satin ribbon

Seams Great or similar product

Fray-check and glue

The trim you can get from your local craft store, online (from mjtrim.com or other source), or from ebay. You can also bead it yourself, I guess, if you have the time and skill to do so.

Everything else you should be able to get from your craft store or beading store.

Measurements and Steps:

The necklace is 40" long, the bead trim part of mine is 25" long. You must cut the trim 1" longer on each side, remove the beads from that 1", and secure the remaining beads.

Next, you make the beading stringss, each 15" long and with at least 6" extra cord at each end.

Then, thread each end of the strand. Pierce with the needle from the right side of the trim at the end where the beads end, pull the tread out from the wrong side, and secure.

After you are done securing all of the bead strings, place some fray-check over the secured edges of the thread ends.

Next, you will fold over the extra 1" on each end of the beaded trim and glue it. Then, you will apply the satin ribbon on the back side of the beaded trim. I used a product similar to Seams Great and used an iron to create the bond between the back side of the trim and the ribbon.

And you are done!

Additional notes:

Your beaded string can be of equal length or get shorter as they go towards the inside part of the trim (see photo below):

When I made my necklace all rows were of equal length. Last night though I redid it as in the photo above and I think it is a more flattering design option.

Instead of beading strings of beads, you can use jewelry chain, best if it is 2mm wide. For a 1.5" wide trim you will need about 14-15 lengths of chain. If you are using chain, you are better off going with the option above (the lengths of the chains getting shorter as they go topwards the inside), or otherwise you are facing major tangling. The end link of the chain is sewn onto the trim and the thread is fastened on the wrong side of the trim.

If you are using beading thread/cord, wax it before you start, for strength.

Fiona Paxton Inspired Necklace

2009-05-13T16:56:00.003-06:00

If you have been paging through magazines letely, you must have come across images of celebrities wearing Fiona Paxton's necklaces. The designer is a RCA trained textile designer who has been developing embroideries and prints for big couture clients for more than 10 years.
I have porovided photos of two of her designs at the end of this post, howevber, if you are interested, this link http://www.ninaandlola.com/fiona-paxton.html will show you more of her designs.

And here is my design:
]

I am really loving it!

These are the inspiration necklaces by Fiona Paxton (images through shopbop.com):

What I Wore Today

2009-05-07T14:14:00.000-06:00

So, this is what I wore today:

Pants: made by me (Burda WOF pattern)

Burned-out tee

Alicr and Olivia vest (it was on a really good sale so I figured I'd get it even though I could make one, besidesm it is really well made)

Necklace: self-designed and made
Bunch of other vintage and not so vintage jewelry (ebay, TJMaxx, Banana Republic)

Aldo shoes... I LOVE THEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If enyone likes them, here is a link (http://www.aldoshoes.com/us/women/pumps/peep-toe/73502140-maune/91) and with this coupon you get 10% off: STUDADV817002.

On a sewing note, I am really going to try to make the jacket with the pronounced sleeves. I don't know if I'll be successful, but will give it a try. As a starting point, I took Violet's advice (http://violet-bleu.blogspot.com/) and ordered two Winifred Aldrich's "Metric Pattern Cutting" books, one for general women's wear and one for tailored women's garments. Violet commented that the book provides instructions for changing a semi-fitted sleeve to a very close fitted sleeve and raising the bodice armhole. I'll keep you posted how the project goes, even if it is going south:)

Balmain SS'09 Inspired Blazer

2009-05-05T21:08:00.005-06:00

I am in love with the shoulders on the jackets below. The first two are by Balmain, I am not sure about the third. In any case, I see the third as quite wearable for me, and am thinking on perhaps trying to make it. It is going to be the biggest drafting challenge I have eber undertaken.

net-a-porter.com

http://www.bloglovin.com/link.php?l=aHR0cCUzQSUyRiUyRnN0YXJkdXN0YW5kc2VxdWlucy53b3JkcHJlc3MuY29tJTJG&b=365849

Here is my analysis of the last jacket:

single breasted
peak lapel
2 hip pockets
narrow sleeve (may be a 2-piece one)
high armhole
fitted bodice: princess seam or 2 darts

Preliminary sketches for the purpose of the armhole and sleeve:

I'd very much appreciate input and ideas about how to make it, as well as suggestions on a pattern I could start from for the bodice.

Punk Bracelets

2009-04-18T14:40:00.001-06:00

I have been inspired by Jen Kao's jewelry and wanted to do something similar. The photo is courtesy os http://www.forwardforward.com/.

What you need is leather, chain, zipper and glue. From there you can add on if you want to. In addition to the basics, I used eyelets on the leather and threaded leather lacing through some of the chains.

I kinda like how mine turned out, It is not an everyday item but is a fun punky one that I will wear from time to time.

Playsuit - Jumpsuit!

2009-04-15T15:57:00.005-06:00

I have been craving a jumpsuit for a while now. The ones below are by Paul and Joe (photos from net-a-porter.com) and represent only a fraction of ehat is out there in the stores.

Pattern: Selfdrafted. Took me 3 muslins but was worth it! BTW, it is not hard to do. All it is is a top and a pant pattern glued together. Well, it is not quite that simple but is not rocket science either!

Fabric: Lightweight bright blue denim.

Details: Inseam pockets; pleated band; cuffed pants; invisible zipper in side seam; elastic band in back pand; elastic at waist (you cannot see this in the photos, it is under the belt).

Construction: It was very easy to make!

The leather elastic belt and the necklace are also designed and made by me.

I LOVE it!

In fact, I love it so much that am thinking on making another one and trying to sell it on Etsy. Well, this is just a plan, but I love my pair!

Monday Stuff...

2009-04-06T15:10:00.001-06:00

So, we had a white-out Saturday and then a stay-at-home-for-no-good-reason Sunday. I had a lot of writing to do for school, so it all worked out. Unfortunately, due to school, I won't have a lot of sewing time till the end of the 1st week of May. C'est la vie...

Anyway, today we decided to venture outside of our home, haha! My 3 y.o. daughter loves feeding the ducks that reside in the pond behind our local library. We made a trip there to pick up some books and she got to feed her friends:

I love her outfit. The skirt was knitted by her grandmother (my MIL), I made the wrap-around oversized scarf, her Ugg-like boots are from Target, and her faux-fur vest is by GAP (do I ever wish they made a women's version of it!).

And I have some flowers it in my yard braving the high altitude Colorado weather!

Have a great week!

Pleated Cuffed Pants

2009-04-03T17:10:00.001-06:00

In the pictures the pant is worn with my favorite Raybans, a racerback tank made by me, an Alice and Olivia Vest and Max De Carlo pumps (a great deal from Marshall's).

Inspiration:
Generally, I do not like pants with pleated fronts and never thought I would make one! When the first pleated front pants started sneaking up on me from the web and the magazines, I ignored them with slight detest. That is, untill I saw this Helmut Lang's number on the left.

Later, when I was determining the details, I looked at many RTW pieces.

Pattern:
Burda WOF 2008-02-121, s. 36
This pattern was part of my “Rediscovering Burda WOF 2008” project and I am glad I found it.

Pattern Alterations for fit:
Surprisingly, none whatsoever…
If I was going for a more fitted look, then I would have taken 1.5” from the CB.

Design Driven Pattern Modifications:
Tapered the pant leg to where the hem circ. was 14.75”.
Decreased the inseam to 25.5” and added 4” for cuffs.
Decreased the waistband width to 1.75”.
Added an actual front fly.
Extended the front pocket to the CF.

Fabric:
Lightweight black wool from Textile-o-philes (a local fabric store).

Construction details:
The front pleats are sewn in 2”. This eliminates bulk right below the waistline.

Key elements are topstitched by hand.
Pockets:

Cuffs: loosely pressed for an undone chic:

Conclusion:
About the pattern: A very well drafted one!
As for everything else, I like the pants and the style. Will make it from a charcoal silk shortly, much like DVF made her Allen pant from silk charmeuse.

What I Wore to School Today

2009-04-02T16:24:00.007-06:00

I am thinking of posting occasionally some daily outfits. I think it may be a good idea if only for me to see what I actually wear and what I don't. Also, it may be a good way to track how much and how I wear what I make.
This is my "going to school" look as of today. Nothing from what is on me today is made by me, but anyway, I am wearing my favorite ankle booties by Ash, a thrifted necklace, BR blazer, and Martin and Osa shirt.

Shoe Habits

2009-04-01T17:11:00.009-06:00

A girl has to feed her show habit (sometimes only visually unfortunately). Besides, shoes are my chocolate!

There are quite a few shoe trends right now, but I like the overall "dangerously sexy woman" feeling/undertone that the SS'09 shoe collections have.

Here are some of my favourites. The prices range from $150 to $1500 (the ISL beauties).

Flats:

by G. Zanotti, Prada, and Ash:

I don't wear flats much, yet, I am dying for the Ash studded number!

I read today that Carine Roitfeld (the editor of the French Vogue) had taught her daughter (Julia Restoin-Roitfeld) to always wear heels and frowned upon Julia's showing up in flats. I am not so extreme about heels, yet I do prefer them. I quess at 5'3" i have to!

So, check out these heels:

by Stella McCartney, G. Zanotti, Margiela, Blahnik, Ash, and Ash again:

I think the Margiela open-toe bootie (the 3rd) is SO gorgeous and likely easy to walk in actually!

The red high-heel sneaker also come in a canvas color and I am so tempted... I don't wear sneaker but if I have a high-heels one, who knows!

by Dior, Chloe, Linea Paolo, and Ash:

I am not very fond of the shape of the Dior shoe, but the graphic on it is a killer.

As far as the last one by Ash, I wish they had made the shaft an inch shorter. For me, at least, that 1" less would hava made the shoes more wearable.
And the best for last...

Now, if you really care for me, get me one of these:

by ISL, Ann Demeulemeester, and Ash...

I may never have the opportunity to wear the ISL caged booties in Colorado Springs but they are so beautiful, so architectural, that will be exhibitted in my house as a piece of art. They ARE a piece of art...

BTW, Ash ( believe Italian) is a brand that comes at $150-$300 pricepoint but looks so much more expensive. In the winter I bought a pair of gray suede booties by Ash from shopbop.com, have worn them a lot, and every time I wear them I would be complimented 3-5 times during the day. That is the only pair of shoes I own that has demaned such continuous positive attention. Nordstrom and shopbop.com carry Ash. Perhaps others do too.

Do you like any of these?

What Inspires Me These Days

2009-04-01T16:22:00.007-06:00

I have been browsing fashion related sites lately and wanted to share what inspires me lately.

Helmut Lang tops the list. I want to have everything he makes! It is so urban, effortless, modern! So right!

I have some ideas of H. Lang-ish outfits of my own. Will post about that later!

I came upon harputsown.com by accident. Their stuff is urban, minimalstic, multifucntional, and ingenious. And check out the swacket!

Have you ever felt like you must have something? Yes, I feel this was about this leather dress:

Lastly, alldressedup.com

Their collection is so different than what I would typically go for, yet it is beutiful and inspiring. The way they use texture in their accessories:

The color, shape, layering int he clothing:

If I owned a boutique I'd carry this line, for sure!

Thanks, Everyone...

2009-03-28T21:38:00.002-06:00

Thanks to everyone for the support!
The jacket is a fiasco, I do not have anough fabric to do it again. I had preshrunk both fabric and interfacing, however, I guess, some fabrics are just not meant to be fused.
Anyway, once the semester is over I 'll try it again, in a more spring-summery fabric, and hopefully it would work.
I have two completed projects (from before the jacker fiasco) I have to blog about (pants and a top) but have to take pictures first.
Thanks again to everyone for the support.
I have a question... If I am to use sew-in interfacing, what type do I have to buy? Specifically, what do you use if you are using light- to medium weight fabric? Do you still use Hymo? If yes, which parts do you apply to?

Crashed...

2009-03-27T11:50:00.002-06:00

Remember when some time ago I posted about a muslin for a boyfriend blazer? Well, I worked some more on the muslin, ordered fabric, made the blazer, the lining... The only thing I had to do was to attach the lining to the blazer. Then, the fusible interfacing started bubbling...
I have been sewing since the early 80s and have never had this happen to me before. I have used this intefacings before successfully, so my guess would be the fabric was the reason. The fabric was wool, so maybe that is why...
It is so sad because I used my entire spring break to male it and who knows when I have the same chunk of time to dod it again, if i do it again.
On the upside, the fit is great, it looks awesome on me, I learned how to make a chest pocket, a new technique for making a notched lapel, and a back vent technique.
Still though, if you have ever attempted a tailored blazer, you know how much work goes into it to get it to where you have to attach the lining, and I just ...OMG... I cannot believe it...

Tulip Skirt and a Knit Tank

2009-03-11T23:15:00.001-06:00

No tulips outside yet, but I finished the "like Malene Birger" tulip skirt!

Unbenownst to me, according to the last issue of Lucky, tulip skirts with drape details are very much in. I personally do not care that much if they are in or not, I just love the way it creates curves for me without making me look unproportional.

Some time ago I posted about the muslin making process for this skirt and my fabric choice dilema (you can scroll down the blog if you are interested).

Initially, I intended to make the lower partfrom a loud print. Well, I did not because 1) did not find the right weight printed fabric and 2) decided I wil wear it more in a solid nude color. I think that the fact this cotton has a satin finish makes a big difference. It would have been rather dull otherwise.

The main fabric used is satin cotton from Emmaonesock.com. The bottom part is underlined with quilting cotton. The underlining was aimed at creating a "POOF."

It is lined and has side inseam pockets.

This is a very distinctive style, however, I rarely, very very rarely fall for a skirt, and I absolutely love the style of this one. Therefore, I may make it again and will make sure to choose a beefy, yet quite drapey fabric for the bottom (a tall choice that will require a lot of searching).

The fabric for this skirt could have been drapier, and it would have been useful mostly in the lower front part, but I could not find anything drapey, yet with substance, at this time.

Here are some close-up photos of some construction details:

The top I am wearing is inspired by the tees from T by Alexander Wang collection: soft, loose, unpretencious, subtly sexy.

My version is made of super soft rayon jersey from Emmaonesock.com (I believe it is sold out, or I would have gotton more...)

The top is self-drafted throught the trial and error method.

I really like that it is like a plain canvass, and I can wear all my self-designed oversized jewelry with it!

Applying grommets to garments

2009-03-09T14:09:00.003-06:00

This is another embelished tank I have been working on:

The fabric is rayon jersey in salmon color from gotgeoudfabrics.com. I have much more from it and plan to make a maxi dress from it.
Two more photos:

This is a quick tutorial on applying grommets to garments:

Below are the materials you will need. You can get everything from Joann. The grommets are in the Home Dec dection. They vary in size and color. My local store had 5 different colors. BTW, the grommets are intended for shower curtains.

First, you must mark where you want your grommet.
Place the template (comes with the grommets) on top of your mark and mark in the cutout with water/air-soluble pen.

Cut out a hair within the marks.

From here now on it was hard to photograph, and I'll try to explain.

Turn the garment with the wrong side facing you.
The grommet has a male and femal part.

Take the male part and place it behind the hole. Make sure the fabric is in the ditch (indented part) of the male grommet.

Take the female part and snap it on top.

At the end the female part will be on the wrong side and the male part will be on the right side of your project.

You can easily remove the grommets. The female part has a small opening where you can insert a small screw-driver and it will unsnap.

And voila!

The Boyfriend Blazer

2009-03-04T15:25:00.007-07:00

I am really feeling the "boyfriend" silluette this spring. Below are two blazers that I have been interested in(from left to right: blazer by Smythe at shopbop.com and William Rast at revolveclothing.com). I tried a Literature Noir blazer at Nordstrom and the style looked awesome, or at least I thought so.

Since I have not attempted a tailored garment in a long time, I thought I should try it and here is my muslin:

I don't have fabric but am looking for one!

My husband saw it and said, "Well, it is big, but it';s the style." "Yeah," I said, "it's a boyfriend blazer." "Wow, it's one small boyfriend you have," he concluded.

Embelished Racerback Tank

2009-03-04T15:03:00.006-07:00

I have been very busy with life, in general; however, I managed to do some sewing.

Remember I posted about this embelished tank by Haute Hippie (photo from Nordstrom.com)?

Well, I drew from it and did something similar. The fabric is gray (cobalt) rayon jersey from gorgeousfabrics.com. The tank is bound with strips from the same fabric. The fabric flowers are sewn on a bib-like piece that I hand pick-stitched. Ribbon is inserted in the ends of the bib piece and is then threaded through the grommets, and tied behind the neck.

Racerback:

And here is how i wore it today - with a hoodie and a rabbit fur vest:

BTW, I got this ring from a thrift store. It is huge! I love it!

I made another one in salmon color rayon jersey but have not put grommets yet. Will post about it later!

Inspired by a Butterfly Jewelry

2009-02-20T21:39:00.004-07:00

I am not experienced in the field of jewelry making, but was, however, very inspired by a vintage piece I found (the butterfly you'll see below) and that is how it started.

2 out of the 4 pieces are scarf necklaces, which is a shape I am obssessed with now. It can be wrapped around (or not) couple of times and goes perfectly with bare shoulders or with plain white button-down or simple tee.

BUTTERLY necklace:

AUTUMN necklace:

CHIFFON WRAP necklace:

BOLD CHAIN necklace:

Racerback Tank, Inspirations, and Other Works in Progress

2009-02-16T16:00:00.001-07:00

It is cold here and is still snowing now and then. DD doesn’t seem to mind, unless it is really windy. I mind! So, in protest, I am working on my SS’09 plan and bravely shiver when trying stuff on.

The pattern for the top I worked on this Sunday is modeled after the “T Alexander Wang” and Haute Hippie lines, i.e. loose and fluid (photos courtesy of Nordstrom and Shopbop).

I have always had technical issues when binding knits and try to avoid having to bind whenever possible. Additionally, it is even harder for me to bind when the fabric is slippery or almost tissue weight. The fabric I used (butter jersey from http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/) is not slippery; it is, however, very lightweight. So, I came up with finishing the edges using bias strips of lining fabric. It is rather simple, actually. 1st: Cut 1.25” wide bias strips. I used lining fabric, but any lightweight woven would work. 2nd: Steam the strips after the curve they are going to be applied to. 3rd. Baste the strips under the main fabric leaving anywhere from 0.25” to 0.5” to be seen. 4th: Using a narrow coverstitch, permanently stitch the strips to the fabric. 5th: Take off the basting and trim the strips from the wrong side close to the coverstitch. 6th: This is an optional step – using your fingernails, fray the outer edge of the bias strips. I used a trick to stabilize the lightweight jersey during construction: sprayed it with starch and let it dry. Later, I washed away the starch, of course, but the starching was very helpful. Here are some details:

What else have I been doing: Well, I finalized the muslin for my loose fitting pants (see the photos below). I have been working on this pant for awhile now (went through 3+ muslins). I used Burda WOF 2008-02-121, s. 36 and will review the pattern separately. I am pleased with the way the way the muslin turned out. I’m making them from dark gray silk, so it is definitely a summer pant. I want to find some tropical wool and make them for spring too.

Lastly, following Lindsay T’s (from http://www.lindsaytsews.com)recent post, I spent *too* much time browsing new to me blogs. One of the blogs I arrived at was The Glamorai (http://theglamourai.blogspot.com/). OMG, what an inspiration this blog is. The young lady who writes it had such an eclectic, maximalist style, such a keen eye for textures, prints, and mixing them, I was exasperated. BTW, she also sews (one of the items she features is a vintage coat which she overhauled by changing the lining, among other things) and designs jewelry. The second blog I absolutely fell in love with is Atlantis Home (http://atlantishome.typepad.com/my_weblog/). It is a fashion blog about a mom with 2 daughters, and this is the most stylish mom you've ever seen! She also sews and creates clothing herself. this link: http://atlantishome.typepad.com/my_weblog/diy-projects/ is to her DIY projects. I am so inspired by her!

Tiered Camisole - SS'09 plan: The Muslin

2009-02-13T12:04:00.010-07:00

I worked some on another muslin from my SS'09 plan. I started off by tracing off Burda 7643 View C. This was the closest pattern I could find. I had to do a few insignificant adjustments, but there was a notable one: I made the front neckline higher and the back neckline slightly lower.
Next, I decided on the length of the first and second layer of ruffles and drafted them by cutting the front and back pattern to that length.

Due to the layers of fabric, this project required a very lightweight material. I have the options of cotton voile, silk, georgette, etc. I'm still looking for fabric but feel pretty confident I'll find something!

Also, on a side note, since we are talking about tanks, have a look at this Haute Hippie Tank. It is for sale at Nordstrom for $495! I would never pay that amount of moner, however, the idea of incorporating jewelry into the front neckline is unique and appeals to me. If I find a necklace that would work, I might try it. You can even buy a RTW tank and start from there! The only thing I don't know how to go about is how to make the big eyelets in the front straps. Does anyone know of a tool/technique they can be done with?

Copying RTW

2009-02-11T15:26:00.004-07:00

After my last post there were requests to show how I copy RTW when I have the item.

First, these are the materials I use: GLAD Press n' Seal, scissors, tracing wheel, ruler, curve, pattern weights, pencil, sharp tip marker or any other marker.

Other helpful materials: pretty much anything that is generally useful for drafting, e.g. hipcurve, metal curve, etc.

I start by laying the item flat and placing GLAD on top with the stickier side towards the garment. Then, I use a marker to mark the seamlines, garment outlines, etc.:

Next, I lift the GLAD sheet and place it on tha pattern paper with the sticky side down , and with a tracing wheel go over all the marks:

Then, I completely remove the GLAD sheet and as you can see the marks are indented in the paper:

Last, I go with a marker.pencil over the tracing wheel indentations:

Of course, it is a whole lot more complicated when you have darts in the pattern, gathering, sleeves, etc. Even if there are no such complications, you still should not rely solely on what you've traced. You have to measure to ascertain the side seams on the back and front are the same, that curves are appropriate, that everything is symetrical. Of course, you need to make a muslin as well. Thread has had some good articles on the topic. In future when I copy something with a more difficult element, I'll try to document the process for those interested.

BTW, the tracing you see above is a tracing a did for one of the items from my SS'09 sewing plan: the Loose Woven Tank. Initially, I was planning on using This Burda 7661 View B. When I thought about it, though, it became clear that the only instance I needed a pattern for was for the armhole. Therefore, I decided to skip buying a pattern and instead traced off the armhole of a tank I have. I had to lower it and tweak it but that could have very well been the case with the Burda pattern anyway. It took me two muslins but I ended up with something I was truly happy with. This is a collage of the pictures of the muslin I took. Excuse the poor quality but it was close to midnight and the lighting in my sewing room was not optimal.

3 Muslins Later... A Tulip Skirt Muslin was born!

2009-02-08T22:36:00.012-07:00

Well, I have a rather serious issue not being able to find the fabrics I want for some of the garments in my summer sewing plan. I’ll wait a bit longer, order more samples, perhaps go to Denver even. Meanwhile, I decided to start working on my patterns and muslins, so at least I am ready when I find the fabrics.

I started off with the Tulip Skirt. It is a knock-off of a skirt by Malene Birger that I own and love. For some reason it really compliments my otherwise boyish from the waist-down figure. “By Malene Birger” is a well known label in Europe, while in the USA it is just coming in. A local boutique downtown Colorado Springs stocks a few items per season.

So, I started by rubbing off the pattern using GLAD Press and Seal (my favorite product for copying RTW). Then I transferred it onto paper and did some basic truing, measuring, marking. Next, I made the first muslin:

As you can see, there were a few problems:
- Too narrow at the waist
- Waistband too wide
- Dire need to level the seam connecting the upper and lower skirt at the CB and side seams
Then, there was a 2nd muslin, which I did not take pics of but it needed work as well, specifically at the side seams.
For the 3rd muslin I used the lower skirt from the 2nd muslin and only re-cut the upper skirt pieces. The 3rd muslin was OK, but I wanted a bit more volume at the side seams and let them out some between the lower thigh and the high hip.

Eventually, I arrived at my final muslin. Even on it there is one issue (as you can probably see above) – the hem is uneven, but that is already corrected on the paper pattern.

As you can see, even if you are copying a garment you own, muslins are crucial. Just compare the initial ( after rub-off) pattern for the upper skirt and the final one:

They also help with establishing the right sequence in construction. My first muslin was constructed in a completely different order than my last one and the sequence of the last is must more logical and easier to sew and press. The final construction order at which I arrived is:

1. Insert invisible zipper in CB (upper back skirt
2. Attach lower front to upper front and lower back to upper back
3. Inseam pockets.
4. Side seams (The photo below shows the skirt before it is pleated at the waistband)

5. Pleat the front and the back
6. Construct lining and hem lining
7. Baste lining to skirt at waist
8. Attack waistband
9. Hem: to be done with self-fabric facing, understitched and anchored to main fabric by hand.

About the fabric choice:

I want to make this skirt using a solid crisp woven for the upper skirt and drapier bold big print woven for the bottom.

Iam even thinking of attacking a petticoat to the lining for more "poof" in case the fabric for the lower part does not have enough beef, or maybe simply underlining the lower part.

Some of the fabrics I am considering (still don't have true favorites) for the lower part of the skirt are:

These bold florals from gorgeousfabrics.com ( I especially like the 1st one):

And these cottons from equilter.com:

What do you think? I could use some opinions and advice on the fabric! Also, if you have seen some cool cotton print anywhere on the web, pls let me know!

The MUST-SEW Spring/Summer Sewing List

2009-02-07T17:45:00.000-07:00

It is time to plan for spring-summer, and here is my list:

1. Drapey Cropped Full Pant
At first I cringed at the sight if harem pants or even at the fuller pants with front pleats. Then, I saw a photo of DVF’s Allen pant (see below)... And I was sold! I had to have a pant like that.

I have already drafted and muslined a front pleated pant, and am looking for the right fabric now.

Also, Burda 7653 (below) is something that appeals strongly to me.

2. Knit Maxi Dress
I am still looking for the perfect design; however, Elizabeth and James’s dress is my favorite at this point:

with these Caroline Hedaya dress running a close second:

I don't have patterns for either of the dresses; however, both seem pretty straight-forward to draft once you decide on the desired fulness.

3. Jumpsuit
Still have no favorite design but these are the RTW pieces I am looking at for details right now:

The 2nd and 3rd pieces (by, respectively, Paul and Joe and LARok) are most likely what I'll choose.

A Jumpsuit will be interesting to draft. I've never attempted a one-piece, so it should be either very interesting, or extremely frustrating, or both!

4. Proenza Schouler’s Top
Isn't this beautiful... So simple, yet so sopjisticated!

I'll cut this on bias and add structure by inserting boning in the upper side seam

5. A skirt:

I don’t have any summer skirts and this skirt by “by Malene Birger” is my design of choice:

I actually own this skirt and will be coping the pattern.

6. A casual tank(s)

I love tanks and am looking forward to making some slouchier versions - both knit and woven ones. I know many will frown on my inspiration, but here it is nonetheless - a slouchy silk tank by Alexander Wang:

This Burda 7661 View B could work:

How cool will it be if a looser silk tank is layered over a more fitted rayon tank and the rayon peaks from underneath?! I love the idea; I guess we;ll see how it would translate into reality.

7. Flirty Woven Camisole(s)

I like both the Rag & Bone button-up tank on the left and the Ella Moss Tiered camisole on the right. Don't know if I'll make both, but one for sure.

This Burda 7643 View C

Burda WOF 2005-05-111

Of course, I will be also making things for DD but this is something I don’t plan for, it is the spur of the moment kind of sewing.

"All sort of Things" kind-of post!

2009-02-06T14:16:00.007-07:00

Thanks to the ever generous Marita from http://exploringpassions.blogspot.com/ I hag this in my mail yesterday:

I am planning on working on these three projects:

Marita is having another giveaway of Patrones mags, so go check her blog!

On a completely different note, I thought I should show you my 3y.o.'s daughter recent creations:

and

As far as sewing, I am working on two muslins: for a skirt and a top, looking for fabric for them and for a pair of pants the muslin for which is finished. I am also trying to decide on my SS'09 sewing plan. School started for me 2 weeks ago and time for sewing will be very limited but I'll try and squeeze some projects in.

Lastly, my dear step-father-in-law who passed away a year and a half ago and left many Hermes, Fendi, Gucci, Ferragamo, Etro, etc. ties. He had hundreds of ties, my MIL gave away many, and has now asked me to list on Ebay the last 50. I tried but because of their counetrfeit policy I can only list 3 every 30 days (or something equally ridiculous). I am looking for ideas how I can sell them. There is no local menswear consignment store, I already checked into it. I can set up an online store but I don't know what traffic I will bring. Anyway, pls share your ideas with me. If you want to peak at the ties, click on this link: http://picasaweb.google.com/lenush2003/Ties#

Argyle Blouse: Burda WOF 2004-02-120

2009-01-26T14:29:00.006-07:00

Inspiration:
This McQ by Alexander McQueen Top:
What I like about McQueen’s design is the casual sophistication and effortlessness that the top exudes.

Pattern:
Burda WOF 2004-02-120, s.38. The pattern is actually for a dress/tunic, I took only the top (blouse) part of the pattern and worked with it.

Pattern Alterations for fit:
Shortened the bodice above the armhole with 0.5”.
On raglan sleeves drafted by Burda WOF I usually have to adjust the shoulder curve to soften it. This, however, was not necessary here.

Pattern Modifications:
The sleeve was overhauled. First, I made it a 1-piece sleeve by putting the front and back parts of the sleeve together and, thus, creating a shoulder dart. Second, I tapered the sleeve towards the hem and adjusted the underarm length to what was needed for the design. Third, I added the pleats, the slit, the placket, and the cuff.
Shirt hem: I added a 0.5” waistband (bias-cut) in which I inserted elastic.
Front slit: lengthened to 7”.
Neckline and slit are bias bound.
3 buttons and button loops were added to the bottom edge of the slit.

Fabric:
Italian argyle print cotton shirting from EOS.
This fabric is one of those you have to see in person to truly appreciate. I love the color combination and the argyle/plaid pattern.

Construction details:
Although it was not in the initial plan, the blouse ended up being underlined with Ambience. The underlining was cut on bias. I think it improves the hang, and I like how it feels against the skin.
Again, D. Coffin’s “Shirtmaking” was invaluable.
Here are some close-up photos of the shirt:

Conclusion:
A pattern with a lovely cut, and isn’t it nice that you can find a current-looking pattern in a 5-yr old magazine!

Kreativ Blogger Award

2009-01-23T09:41:00.005-07:00

Pamela from http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/ nominated me for a Kreativ Blogger Award.
Thank you, Pamela! I am so very appreciative!

Rules and Responsibilities of the Nominees:
1. Copy the award to your site.2. Link to the person from whom you received the award.3. Nominate 7 other bloggers.4. Link to those on your blog.5. Leave a message on the blogs you nominated.

So, now that I have to choose 7 bloggers, here they are (in no particular order):

The lady with impeccable taste from http://www.mycafecouture.com/
The always generous Marita from http://exploringpassions.blogspot.com/
The ever popular and talented Tany from http://tanysewsandknits.blogspot.com/
The delightful and full of information Lindsay from http://www.lindsaytsews.com/
The creative and inspiring Christina from http://assortednotions.blogspot.com/
Geri from http://sewable.blogspot.com/ who always inspires me to try prints and color
The delightlful land ever creative and thoughtful adies from http://sugarcityjournal.blogspot.com/

I am always inspired when I visit these blogs and this is my "thank you" to them!

McCall’s 3799: Button-Down Shirt

2009-01-20T16:50:00.000-07:00

Plaid was big for fall, and I am late on this trend.

To be honest, I first looked into buying a plaid button-down. Why? Well, plaid is not something that I truly love to sew with. Unfortunately, the shirts I liked were way too expensive, IMO; and I did not *really love* any. So, I bit the bullet and made one. I don't regret! I wore it today and loved it!

Pattern:
McCall’s 3799
The front of the pattern is greatly altered.
s.10
I chose this pattern for its lady-like lines. I needed something stylish to counteract the, otherwise boyfriend-ish, fabric.

Pattern Modifications:
a/ For Fit
Petite alterations on the bodice, as marked on the pattern.
I used narrower cuff and had to lengthen the sleeves.
Shoulder extended with 0.25”
Sleeve cap narrowed with 0.5”
b/ For Style:
2.1 Front: a/ Reverse engineered the front and converted the front gathers into bust darts, and b/ Added front vertical darts
2.2 Sleeve: Kept only one pleat at the sleeve hem, removed the other 2. This reduced the sleeve circumference everywhere from the armhole to the hem
2.3 Cuff: the length of the cuff was reduced.
2.4 Lengthened the bodice at the hem and changed the shaping of the hem

Fabric:
I used a Ralph Lauren shirt (XL size) that used to belong to my husband, cut it up and sourced the fabric as needed. The fabric is 100% cotton, hence, has no stretch. I think that, ideally for this pattern, or for any other pattern for a fitted button-down, the fabric it should have some, albeit not excessive, crosswise stretch.
BTW, this plaid was not easy to work with: hard to see your marks on, a lot of tiny lines to match, etc. Also, having been sewn once into a shirt, there were parts of the fabric that were a bit distorted and needed special attention. I get shivers just thinking of the state of mind that brought me to!

Construction details:
Did not use the pattern instruction and cannot comment on their quality.
I have made men’s shirts for my husband and I made them with flat-felled seams and the whole shebang. I decided to not to do flat felled seams this time. Reason – matching the *darn* plaid was challenging enough!
I also had fabric constrains and had to reuse the original cuffs by resizing them, which is why they are narrower than I would have made them if I had enough fabric. That was the only reused piece though, everything else was made from scratch. Also due to fabric constraints, I used different plaid (from a different DH’s shirt) for the lining piece for the yoke.
When I make shirts I like to consult David Coffin’s “Shirtmaking.” It is the best study on shirt making that I’ve come across.
There are also a few things that I do differently. For example, I like to add a bit of shaping to the outside edge of the collar, see here:

With shirts, it is important to remember that the pieces you interface are:
- the cuff: the outward piece of it
- the collar stand: the piece closer to your neck; interfacing cut on bias
- the collar: the piece closer to you neck; interfacing cut on bias. I also like to add a second layer of interfacing on the collar: two triangles right at the pointy parts of the collar (you can see on the picture above).

Conclusion:
Well, obviously my shirt does not look anything like the pattern and that is how I wanted it to be. The pattern, however, is drafted superbly well and some of my fit changes were driven by the fact that I should have cut s.12 but my pattern envelope only covered through s.10. This pattern is OOP, but can be found on Ebay (where I got it from, actually), and I do very much recommend it!

My Sewing Story

2009-01-18T17:57:00.000-07:00

When I posted about the last pair of pants I made, Dei from http://deisdelights.blogspot.com/, Lyndsay T from http://www.lindsaytsews.com/, and Melodymcfarland from http://melodymcfarland.wordpress.com/ asked how I learned to sew and draft. So, this is how…

I am almost completely self-taught. Started sewing as a kid for my dolls – by hand, or by machine. My grandmother could sew a little and my dad would help with the machine. My first machine was a toy one that actually stitched. My first real machine was an old hand-driven Singer. It did not have zig-zag and I overcasted by hand. In high school my parents bought me a zig-zag foot-operated machine (the brand I don’t remember but I got it through a sale of Home-Ec machines).

Back then in Bulgaria the apparel stores did not offer much and there were a lot of seamstresses who sewed for profit. Many of my clothes were made by a seamstress. I wanted to be able to sew my own clothes and when I was 13-14 y.o. I made myself a pair of shorts with a side zipper and a top with dolman sleeves that came down to above the navel and tied in the back (both woven). I wore them the whole summer!

In the early 90s, after the fall of the Berlin Wall, more foreign language literature became available and I began buying Burda WOF in German. I think it was back then when I developed the habit of not reading instructions due to my not speaking German. A few years later I started buying Burda WOF in Russian, a language I well understood, but still ignored instructions. I learned mostly in two ways: 1. By observing RTW, and 2. Through the illustrated sewing courses in Burda WOF.

In college I sew a little, rarely for myself. By that time there was no shortage of capparel for sale; my time, however, was limited. I did mostly alteration and some garment sewing for profit. Immediately after college I started a fairly demanding job and did not have the time, space, or desire to sew.

In 1992 my parents bought me a basic PFAFF and I used it till I moved to the USA in 2003. I did not bring it over here because of luggage restrictions, etc. When I moved-in with my now-husband, he lived across the street from the Harold Washington library in Chicago. They had a great sewing section and I borrowed a lot from there. Those were the first sewing books I ever read! Still did not sew though! By reading all those books I not only learned the sewing terminology in English, but also became aware of all kinds of notions and techniques I have never ever heard of before. Then, my husband purchased a new condo and we needed window treatments. We decided he would get me a machine and supplies and I would make the draperies. That is how I started sewing again. It was then when I tried my first non-Burda WOF pattern - a Vogue pattern for a blazer. A year later I bought a Juki serger.

As far as drafting pants… There is a place a Chicago where a tailor teaches drafting and sewing - EWS Academy (http://www.ewsacademy.org/) . You start with pants, then skirts, shirts, blazer, and a coat. I became pregnant after the skirt draft and had to stop for it was impossible to fit muslins on me and firtting on yourself was part of the instructor's process. I was too stresses to start taking classes again after DD was born, and soon thereafter we moved to Colorado. I feel grateful that I learned how to draft pants though since I wear bottoms so much!

I also like to copy RTW pieces that fit me well; I have unstitched (and then stitched back) a pair of trousers that I love to get the pattern from it.

Now, I read blogs and learn a lot from them. I also love to browse through brick-and mortar boutiques and observe the techniques used by established designers. For example, a few days ago I came across a Robert Rodrigues dress with very interesting seaming detail.
What it is:
1. The seams are stitches wrong sides together.
2. The seams are pressed flat apart.
3. A satin bias strip is cut. The strip is about 3/8” narrower than the width of both seam allowances.
4. The bias strip is stitched on the right side, in the ditch of the original seam.
You cannot see this well in the picture, but trust me, it was beautiful!

So, this is pretty much it as far as my sewing history goes.
In my sewing *now* is a button-down plaid shirt I am working on now and will post about it as soon as it is ready!

Slim Low-Rise Pants

2009-01-15T17:04:00.002-07:00

Inspiration:
I like to browse retail websites and fashion mags and get ideas about what I’d like to sew. This pair of pants is no different, and here are the pieces I drew ideas from:

Design:
Slim leg, low-rise, short inseam. Here is the sketch:
Pattern:
I started off with a developed some time ago pant sloper, modified the leg according to the knee and ankle circumference I was going for, and added the pockets and the fly front. A muslin later I had my pattern.

Fabric:
Japanese Woven fabric – “Roam If You Want To” - from http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/. It is non-stretch, spring weight. This is the 2nd time I use this fabric (I made a high-waisted skirt from it earlier) and it sews like a dream!

Construction details:

For interfacing I used fine weft and fusible tricot. Fusible tricot was used behind the pockets and on the waistband facing. Everywhere else I applied fine weft. The waistband is contoured and faced with pocketing fabric. For pockets I used double welt pockets with tabs on the back and slant double welt pockets on the front.

Front slant double welt pockets – I saw this particular design on a pair of GAP pants and thought it was a neat idea (particularly for low-rise pants) how the top edge of the pocket was “cut.” I mulled over what was the best technique to use and I came up with a pretty decent one. http://picasaweb.google.com/lenush2003/FrontWeltPocket this is a photo tutorial on how to make them.

Missed but Not Forgotten!

2009-01-09T15:06:00.005-07:00

I am contemplating whether or not to re-subscrive for Burda WOF. So, I decided to go through the 2008 issues and look-out for missed gems. Here is what I came up with:

02-121 Pleated pants.

I want to make a pair of cropped pleated pants in silk and this pattern is a good starting point:

04-101 Safari Dress

Love the flounce at the bottom:

04-113 Cargo Pants

I'd make them longer, so I could roll them up:

05-126 Jacket

I'd make it longer (high-hip or so); otherwise the design of the sleeves is really unique:

05-113 Shirt dress

It is not exactly that I missed this pattern, I just could not find the right slot buttons last year:

05-108 Tulip Skirt

Interestingly draped design:

06-105 - Shirt

Not completely sold on this one but with the right fabric it could be a winner:

08-111 Shirt Dress

If I only find the right print, this would be a lovely 4-season dress:

09-115 Shirt

Basic and fitted. Icould try it:

07-118 Sleeveless Tunic

I'm thinking of making this in a stable knit, perhaps with a colorblocked effect, or if it has two distinctive right sides, use both:

Well, the jury is still out on the re-subscribing, but at leat now I know that if I don't subscribe, there are pleanty of projects in the 2008 issues!

What are your omitted but "must-make" designs from the 2008 issues of Burda WOF?

My 2008 Non-Sewing Product Discoveries

2009-01-07T20:40:00.007-07:00

Ok, so, this is still a sewing blog! I would typically not rave about products, unless I am absolutely consumed with belief that they are mention-worthy. It is penny-pinching time right now for many, so I think it is important to share about products that we have found to actually work.

Here are (in no specific order) my 2008 discoveries:

PHYTO
http://www.phyto.com/

This is what their website says: “PHYTO drew inspiration from plants well before the emergence of environmental awareness. To this day, our family-owned Phytosolba Laboratories carefully select the plants with the most beneficial properties to use in each product. Our solutions boast extremely high concentrations of active botanical extracts with clinically proven results. PHYTO products are not tested on animals.”
I have never bought anything more expensive than Tresemme and Pantene for my hair. One reason – at this point my hair does not have any special needs. Recently though, I noticed that as my hair was getting longer, the ends were getting dry and brittle. My hairdresser suggested Phyto, in my case Phytonectar ultra nourishing oil treatment with egg yolk oil and Phytonectar ultra nourishing shampoo with orange blossom. I was pretty ambivalent at first because I tend to doubt more expensive hair products, however, since he has not given me a bad hair care advice yet, I gave it a shop. It has been amazing. I used to use a fair amount of styling products to infuse volume in my hair; now I don’t use anything but a shampoo and a conditioner. DD has very fine hair that gets incredibly static and tangles like crazy. I used the same products on her and the result is silky hair, no static, no tangles. I did the math… The Phyto line is by no means cheap, however, it goes a long way, provides amazing result and I don’t have to buy any other styling products! Additionally, due to me not using styling products, my hair now lasts 1-2 longer without me having to wash it!So, financially, it is a wash, but I love the effectiveness!

DEBBIE MAYERS GREEN BAGS
https://www.greenbags.com/?cid=402572
My MIL gave me a few to try and that was it! I buy veggies and fruit a lot and since I resent grocery shopping, I buy them in big packages. The Green Bags allow for my produce to stay fresh. I could not ask for more!

MARIO BADESCU
http://mariobadescu.com/productDetail.asp?ProductID=44
I have heard people talking about this line but have thought it was all hype and PR. Some time ago I took some samples from MB’s stand Nordstrom and was sold. My skin is combo/break-out prone and likes to create problems for me. I’ve tried many products – OTC, prescription-ointments, Murad. SkinMD, Proactive, you name it. Nothing had really worked, but my credit card company was happy. MB’s products are not cheap, however, they last really long time, you need very little product and are very effective. Here is what I use now:

I have also heard that people with rosacea sweat by his products.

ECO TOOLS
http://www.parispresents.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=36

I know there are plenty high-quality cosmetic brushes out there but, but the prices can prohibitively high. A new line called Ecotools is different. Ecotools are designed to be as ecologically friendly as possible. The products are made primarily of bamboo and synthetic bristles. The company donates some of the profits to sales to environmental groups around the world. What I like: very soft bristles, smooth makeup distribution, very affordable (unlike MAC). I absolutely LOVE their angle eye brush, it is the best! You can purchase Ecotools at WalgreensTarget, Ulta, and Ecotools has a store locator tool.

SOAP AND GLORY
http://www.soapandglorycosmetics.com/

I am in love with the products I’ve tried, i.e. the Body Butter in Peach, Endless Glove Hand Cream, Flake Away Body Scrub, and Sugar Crush Body Scrub. They are effective, smell deliciously, and the packaging is witty. It doesn’t hurt that DH loves them too!

This is a line carried by Target.
http://www.target.com/b/sr=1-21/qid=1231386315/ref=sr_ilm_21/602-9168352-0278209?ie=UTF8&node=379644011

So, this is basically it! I am, of course, not affiliated with any of these retailers/brands. Just a consumer:)